Step 1. Prep & Measurements
Measure your wall and ceiling height. Confirm at least 13 ft 1 in of width is available. Decide on the bed height. Example: 5 ft from the floor with 8.5 ft ceilings allowed children to walk comfortably underneath and sit up in bed without hitting the ceiling.
Note: If building between two closed walls, skip floating-side supports and duplicate the same measurements for both sides. If building a single loft bed, use the floating-side support design. Adjust height for your children and space. Standard twin mattress dimensions: 75" x 38".
For the main bed frame (mounted to two walls): cut two 75.5" and two 39.5" pieces. For the second frame (with the floating side, if applicable): cut one 75.5", one 39.5", one 77", and one 38". Use a pry bar to remove baseboards on the back wall (and side walls if necessary) where shiplap will be installed.
Step 2. Cut & Mount Loft Frame to Walls
Use a stud finder to locate wall studs and mark them. Cut 2x4s to size for the frame (side rails = long pieces, end rails = short pieces). Using a laser level, mark the chosen height. Align one end rail just above the line and mount to the side wall with 4" screws. Pro Tip: Tack boards in place with a brad nailer before driving screws. Install one side rail to the back wall, securing into studs with 4" screws. Mount the second end rail to the side rail. Important: Pre-drill with a drill, then drive screws with an impact driver to prevent splitting and ensure clean connections.
Step 3. Create & Install Floating Support Post (First Loft)
With the laser level still in place, align the hanging end rail with the laser line. Measure from the bottom of the rail to the floor (floors may slope, so measuring ensures level). Cut one 2x4 to this height, and another 3.5" longer. Nail the boards together with the brad nailer to form a support post (this doubles as part of the ladder frame). Clamp post upright (short side outward) 1.5" from the end of the end rail. Secure the rail to the post with 2.5" screws. Install the final side rail, fitting it snugly into the post. Secure with 2.5" screws.
Step 4. Build Second Loft Bed Frame & Support Post
Mount the side rail to the back wall at the same height as the first loft using a laser level. (If building between 2 closed walls, repeat Steps 2–3 instead and skip to Step 5.) Secure two end rails to each end of the side rail using 3" screws, leaving the other ends hanging. Repeat Step 2’s method to measure and cut posts for the stairs and the floating side: one to exact height, one 3.5" longer. Nail together and clamp, then secure with screws. Note: The floating side post supports the end rail, not the side rail, so it won’t interfere with the 12" horizontal side rail installed later.
Step 5. Install Slats
Install 16 joist hangers (8 per frame, 4 on each side). Cut and install 2x4 slats across each frame into the hangers. If wall length exceeds 13'1", fill gaps with scrap 2x4s for extra support between beds and at the stair frame.
Step 6. Install Platforms
Cut plywood to fit bed frames. Secure to frames with 2.5" screws.
Step 7. Frame & Secure Stairs
Bed frame support posts double as the ladder frame. Cut plywood to size for the stair front and attach. Leave back open. Ensure width is at least 24" (this build: 28.5"). Adjust design for smaller spaces, as needed. Ensure level and secure the ladder and support post (if applicable) to the floor with 4" screws.
Step 8. Electrical Rough-In & Stair Enclosure
Use a drill with 1” Wood spade drill bit to create holes through the slats to run wiring for recessed lights — one under each bed and one above the desk. Mount a 1-gang switch box at chosen height. Wire the dimmable switch and test wiring/lights before enclosing. Cut plywood backing for stairs, leaving opening for switch box. Enclose stair sides and support post with strips of plywood and a brad nailer. Safety Note: Always shut off power at the breaker. Hire a licensed electrician if unsure.
Step 9. Shiplap Walls & Under-Bed Covering
Install shiplap across back wall, cutting for outlets as needed. Mark recessed light placement before closing under-bed sections. Cover under-bed sections with shiplap, cutting for lights. Tack with brad nailer, then secure with 1¼" screws.
Step 10. Lighting Installation
Install 3 recessed lights in pre-cut openings.
Step 11. Mark Rung Placement
Have stair rungs (wooden grab handles) on hand. Mark first rung at 10" from floor, then space each additional rung 16" apart. Use a laser level to dry-fit and keep them horizontal. Mark screw hole locations directly through rungs. Drill pilot holes — these guide rung reinforcements and ease reinstallation after painting.
Step 12. Install Rung Reinforcement Behind Stair Front
Cut 2x4 blocks to span between vertical stair frame pieces. Align blocks with pilot holes from Step 11. Secure blocks with 4" screws through the stair frame or use pocket holes. Ensure blocks are tight and flush to plywood for solid anchoring.
Step 13. Build Floating Desk
Cut plywood for bottom and top desk surfaces (same width as ladder). Cut scrap 1x2s to width of desk minus plywood depth. Secure one 1x2 to studs on back wall, the other to the back of the ladder. Reinforce with screws. Secure bottom surface to 1x2s. Cut two 3" plywood strips and secure each side with glue and pin nails. Add a couple of 3" scrap 2x4 blocks inside the desk for reinforcement and secure in place through the bottom of the desk. Slice a 3" strip off the top desk surface. Install across the back, butted to the ladder. Glue and nail into frame and 2x4 support. Attach remaining top desk surface to this strip with 3 hinges, creating the storage compartment opening. Drill pilot holes for handle pull.
Step 14. Install Horizontal Side Rails
Rip plywood into 12" strips for side rails. Recommendation: Use 1x12 boards for smoother, more finished results.
Step 15. Prep & Paint
Caulk gaps in areas that will be painted and fill holes with wood filler in areas that will be stained. Sand thoroughly, especially edges, to prevent splinters. Apply wood conditioner, then stain desk, ceiling strips, and side rails (Golden Oak). Prime and paint stairs, shiplap walls, support post, and platforms (Matte black “Limousine Leather”). Optional: leave under-bed shiplap white for contrast.
Step 16. Ceiling Supports & Rope Net
Locate ceiling studs with stud finder. Mount 1x4 supports. Install 12 pad eye plates into supports (about 5 along each bed front, 2 on side). Attach rope nets (6' x 3' and 9' x 3'). Pull taut and secure with ½" pipe straps behind side rails.
Step 17. Finishing & Trim Work
Install 4 stair rungs using pilot holes and reinforcements from Step 9. Install desk handle/pull. Install electrical cover plate. Add mesh shelves. Reinstall baseboards and caulk seams. Optional Safety Additions: Add an iron rod or handle on the platform between beds. Alternatively, use vertical supports beside rungs or a ceiling-mounted handle.
Pro Tips
Pre-drill all screw holes. Label lumber cuts for efficiency. Stairs should be at least 24" wide; this build used 28.5". Test electrical before closing walls. Paint visible platforms/landings for a polished finish.