Trace the handle.
I traced the outline of the original handle onto the wood with a pencil. I used a piece of 1-inch thick walnut that I had left over from a previous project.
I used a 3/16th diameter brad point bit to drill a series of holes around the traced outline. I like brad point bits for this task since their sharp points keep them from slipping when you drill holes right next to each other. I cut out most of the handle but left a small piece of it connected to the large piece of wood so that it would be easier to clamp and sand.
I clamped the wood to my worktable and used the carving burr to shape the handle.
Once I had the rough shape of the handle I switched to the sanding drum and smoothed down the handle.
Finish cutting off the handle.
Now that the handle was shaped I cut it off from the rest of the wood with the drill. I used a knife to clean up a few drill marks.
I used 120 and then 320 grit sandpaper to finish the handle.
I finished the walnut with a coat of Danish oil.
Cut out the top knob.
I didn’t like the design of the original knob. It was too close to the stainless steel and my knuckles would bump into the hot kettle when I would try and remove the lid. I drew a completely new profile for the wooden knob and then cut it out with the drill.
Carve and sand.
I carved and finished the knob the same way as the handle.
Remove plastic handles.
I drilled a series of small holes through the plastic handle and then used wire cutters to clip away the plastic between the holes.
Install new handle.
I drilled two holes in the walnut handle to accommodate the metal prongs sticking out from the teakettle. The handle fit on securely but a 2-part epoxy can be used if you don’t achieve a tight fight.
Screw on top knob.
The top knob for a kettle screws off. I drilled a hole into the knob and then screwed it onto the lid.