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DIY Plywood Table
DIY Plywood Table
  • DIY Plywood Table
  • DIY Plywood Table

DIY Plywood Table

I designed this DIY plywood table so that it could be made out of a single sheet of ¾” plywood. The only power tools that I used were a circular saw and a drill/driver.

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I installed a new fresh plywood blade on my 6 ½” cordless circular saw. I want nice clean cuts and I got great results with this Diablo blade. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-6-1-2-in-x-40-Tooth-Finish-Plywood-Saw-Blade-D0641R/202035229
I set up the sheet of plywood on sawhorses and 2x4s. The 2x4s elevated the plywood above the sawhorses and ensured that my circular saw blade would not hit the sawhorses. I clamped a straight edge to the plywood to make sure my cuts were straight.


I installed a new fresh plywood blade on my 6 ½” cordless circular saw.  I want nice clean cuts and I got great results with this Diablo blade.  http://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-6-1-2-in-x-40-Tooth-Finish-Plywood-Saw-Blade-D0641R/202035229
I set up the sheet of plywood on sawhorses and 2x4s.  The 2x4s elevated the plywood above the sawhorses and ensured that my circular saw blade would not hit the sawhorses.  I clamped a straight edge to the plywood to make sure my cuts were straight.
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I set my circular saw blade and a speed square to cut the plywood strips to the appropriate lengths.


I set my circular saw blade and a speed square to cut the plywood strips to the appropriate lengths.
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I used a ruler and a pencil to mark out the angles before cutting them with my circular saw. I didn’t clamp down a straight edge but rather used the guide on my saw and just followed the lines that I drew.


I used a ruler and a pencil to mark out the angles before cutting them with my circular saw. I didn’t clamp down a straight edge but rather used the guide on my saw and just followed the lines that I drew.
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I sanded the edges of the pieces with some 220 grit sandpaper. The fresh saw blade cut cleanly so there wasn’t much sanding to do.


I sanded the edges of the pieces with some 220 grit sandpaper.  The fresh saw blade cut cleanly so there wasn’t much sanding to do.
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I assembled the legs in two stages. First I glued together 4 different sets of pieces. For the first table I made I used screws as well. For the end table I relied more on glue so that I would have to cover up the screw heads later. I clamped the pieces together and let the glue cure on the first set of 4 pieces before combining those pieces into a single leg for the table.


I assembled the legs in two stages.  First I glued together 4 different sets of pieces. For the first table I made I used screws as well.  For the end table I relied more on glue so that I would have to cover up the screw heads later.  I clamped the pieces together and let the glue cure on the first set of 4 pieces before combining those pieces into a single leg for the table.
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I clamped down a straight edge and then cut strips off of the plywood to use as supports for the underside of the table. I also cut off the corners to make additional supports and to give the tabletop a cool shape.


I clamped down a straight edge and then cut strips off of the plywood to use as supports for the underside of the table.  I also cut off the corners to make additional supports and to give the tabletop a cool shape.
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I trimmed so of the triangular pieces that were cut from the legs and then glued those to some of the support strips that I cut off of the tabletop. For some of these support pieces I had to glue a few short pieces together. I then glued and screwed these pieces to the inside corners of the legs. I glued the pieces that I cut off of the table top corners to each other to make 2 triangular braces that I glued and screwed to this inside frame to give it additional strength.


I trimmed so of the triangular pieces that were cut from the legs and then glued those to some of the support strips that I cut off of the tabletop.  For some of these support pieces I had to glue a few short pieces together.   I then glued and screwed these pieces to the inside corners of the legs.  I glued the pieces that I cut off of the table top corners to each other to make 2 triangular braces that I glued and screwed to this inside frame to give it additional strength.
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I trimmed the scrap pieces that I cut for the inner frame and then glued them into the gaps in the legs.


I trimmed the scrap pieces that I cut for the inner frame and then glued them into the gaps in the legs.
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I used wood putty to fill the up the holes left by the screws. Once the putty had dried we sanded it flush to the plywood. I used sandpaper to smooth down the edges of the plywood and to round over the edges just a little bit.


I used wood putty to fill the up the holes left by the screws.  Once the putty had dried we sanded it flush to the plywood.  I used sandpaper to smooth down the edges of the plywood and to round over the edges just a little bit.
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I painted the table with 2 coats of white paint. I then glued the tabletop to the base. I used weights to hold the top down tight to the base while the glue cured.


I painted the table with 2 coats of white paint.  I then glued the tabletop to the base.  I used weights to hold the top down tight to the base while the glue cured.
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For the 2nd table I made some adjustments to the designed so that the inner frame support would be thinner in profile and help emphasize the sharp angular geometry of the legs. I also trimmed some of the triangular pieces at a 45-degree angle so I could place the legs closer to the ends of the table. This give more room for chairs along the long side of the table. I also wanted to leave the wood grain exposed so I relied more on glue and less on screws to connect the pieces. I did however use screws in a cross pattern to attaché the table top to the bases. I like the way these crew heads look in contrast to the wood. This sanded pine plywood was cheaper than the furniture grade poplar plywood I used for the first table so I used weights to hold it flat while I assembled it.


For the 2nd table I made some adjustments to the designed so that the inner frame support would be thinner in profile and help emphasize the sharp angular geometry of the legs.  I also trimmed some of the triangular pieces at a 45-degree angle so I could place the legs closer to the ends of the table.  This give more room for chairs along the long side of the table. I also wanted to leave the wood grain exposed so I relied more on glue and less on screws to connect the pieces.  I did however use screws in a cross pattern to attaché the table top to the bases.  I like the way these crew heads look in contrast to the wood.  This sanded pine plywood was cheaper than the furniture grade poplar plywood I used for the first table so I used weights to hold it flat while I assembled it.
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RYOBI NATION
RYOBI NATION

Very cool! We're really liking the details on the legs.

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Homemade Modern

Homemade Modern

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Project Information

Difficulty: Intermediate
Category: Furniture

Materials Used:

  • white paint

  • wood putty

  • glue

  • 220 grit sand paper

  • ruler and pencil

  • 2x4

  • sawhorse

  • diablo blade

  • Plywood


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