I installed a new fresh plywood blade on my 6 ½” cordless circular saw. I want nice clean cuts and I got great results with this Diablo blade. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-6-1-2-in-x-40-Tooth-Finish-Plywood-Saw-Blade-D0641R/202035229
I set up the sheet of plywood on sawhorses and 2x4s. The 2x4s elevated the plywood above the sawhorses and ensured that my circular saw blade would not hit the sawhorses. I clamped a straight edge to the plywood to make sure my cuts were straight.
I set my circular saw blade and a speed square to cut the plywood strips to the appropriate lengths.
I used a ruler and a pencil to mark out the angles before cutting them with my circular saw. I didn’t clamp down a straight edge but rather used the guide on my saw and just followed the lines that I drew.
I sanded the edges of the pieces with some 220 grit sandpaper. The fresh saw blade cut cleanly so there wasn’t much sanding to do.
I assembled the legs in two stages. First I glued together 4 different sets of pieces. For the first table I made I used screws as well. For the end table I relied more on glue so that I would have to cover up the screw heads later. I clamped the pieces together and let the glue cure on the first set of 4 pieces before combining those pieces into a single leg for the table.
I clamped down a straight edge and then cut strips off of the plywood to use as supports for the underside of the table. I also cut off the corners to make additional supports and to give the tabletop a cool shape.
I trimmed so of the triangular pieces that were cut from the legs and then glued those to some of the support strips that I cut off of the tabletop. For some of these support pieces I had to glue a few short pieces together. I then glued and screwed these pieces to the inside corners of the legs. I glued the pieces that I cut off of the table top corners to each other to make 2 triangular braces that I glued and screwed to this inside frame to give it additional strength.
I trimmed the scrap pieces that I cut for the inner frame and then glued them into the gaps in the legs.
I used wood putty to fill the up the holes left by the screws. Once the putty had dried we sanded it flush to the plywood. I used sandpaper to smooth down the edges of the plywood and to round over the edges just a little bit.
I painted the table with 2 coats of white paint. I then glued the tabletop to the base. I used weights to hold the top down tight to the base while the glue cured.
For the 2nd table I made some adjustments to the designed so that the inner frame support would be thinner in profile and help emphasize the sharp angular geometry of the legs. I also trimmed some of the triangular pieces at a 45-degree angle so I could place the legs closer to the ends of the table. This give more room for chairs along the long side of the table. I also wanted to leave the wood grain exposed so I relied more on glue and less on screws to connect the pieces. I did however use screws in a cross pattern to attaché the table top to the bases. I like the way these crew heads look in contrast to the wood. This sanded pine plywood was cheaper than the furniture grade poplar plywood I used for the first table so I used weights to hold it flat while I assembled it.