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DIY Plywood Sofa
DIY Plywood Sofa
DIY Plywood Sofa
  • DIY Plywood Sofa
  • DIY Plywood Sofa
  • DIY Plywood Sofa

DIY Plywood Sofa

This DIY modern plywood sofa is made out of 2-1/2” sheets of ¾” plywood from home depot. The cushions are made out of foam from foambymail.com I bought the leather to cover the foam cushions from tandyleather.com

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Videos


Steps


STEP 1: Rip the plywood
I installed a new fresh plywood blade on my 6 ½” cordless circular saw. I want nice clean cuts and I got great results with this Diablo blade. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-6-1-2-in-x-40-Tooth-Finish-Plywood-Saw-Blade-D0641R/202035229
I set up the sheet of plywood on sawhorses and 2x4s. The 2x4s elevated the plywood above the sawhorses and ensured that my circular saw blade would not hit the sawhorses. I clamped a straight edge to the plywood to make sure my cuts were straight.


STEP 1: Rip the plywood
I installed a new fresh plywood blade on my 6 ½” cordless circular saw.  I want nice clean cuts and I got great results with this Diablo blade.  http://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-6-1-2-in-x-40-Tooth-Finish-Plywood-Saw-Blade-D0641R/202035229
I set up the sheet of plywood on sawhorses and 2x4s.  The 2x4s elevated the plywood above the sawhorses and ensured that my circular saw blade would not hit the sawhorses.  I clamped a straight edge to the plywood to make sure my cuts were straight.
×

STEP 2: Cut the plywood strips to length
I set my circular saw blade and a speed square to cut the plywood strips to the appropriate lengths.


STEP 2:  Cut the plywood strips to length
I set my circular saw blade and a speed square to cut the plywood strips to the appropriate lengths.
×

STEP 3: Glue the strips together
I used wood glue and clamps to turn the strips of plywood into two long beams that will make up the front and back of the frame for the sofa.


STEP 3: Glue the strips together
I used wood glue and clamps to turn the strips of plywood into two long beams that will make up the front and back of the frame for the sofa.
×

Step 4. Assemble the frame.
I cut pieces to fit in between the front and back beams and then glued and screwed them together. I kept adding overlapping layers of plywood making sure that no screw heads show from the top.



Step 4. Assemble the frame.
I cut pieces to fit in between the front and back beams and then glued and screwed them together. I kept adding overlapping layers of plywood making sure that no screw heads show from the top.
×

Step 5. Sand the frame. I sanded the frame with my orbital sander to make all the plywood edges flush and smooth.


Step 5. Sand the frame.  I sanded the frame with my orbital sander to make all the plywood edges flush and smooth.
×

STEP 1: Rip the plywood
I installed a new fresh plywood blade on my 6 ½” cordless circular saw. I want nice clean cuts and I got great results with this Diablo blade. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-6-1-2-in-x-40-Tooth-Finish-Plywood-Saw-Blade-D0641R/202035229
I set up the sheet of plywood on sawhorses and 2x4s. The 2x4s elevated the plywood above the sawhorses and ensured that my circular saw blade would not hit the sawhorses. I clamped a straight edge to the plywood to make sure my cuts were straight.


STEP 1: Rip the plywood
I installed a new fresh plywood blade on my 6 ½” cordless circular saw.  I want nice clean cuts and I got great results with this Diablo blade.  http://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-6-1-2-in-x-40-Tooth-Finish-Plywood-Saw-Blade-D0641R/202035229
I set up the sheet of plywood on sawhorses and 2x4s.  The 2x4s elevated the plywood above the sawhorses and ensured that my circular saw blade would not hit the sawhorses.  I clamped a straight edge to the plywood to make sure my cuts were straight.
×

Step 6 Add the legs
I aadded the legs in two stages. First I glued together 3” wide strips of plywood 2 or 3 at a time. I then glued and screwed these pieces to the underside of the frame.


Step 6 Add the legs
I aadded the legs in two stages.  First I glued together 3” wide strips of plywood 2 or 3 at a time. I then glued and screwed these pieces to the underside of the frame.
×

STEP 2: Cut the plywood strips to length
I set my circular saw blade and a speed square to cut the plywood strips to the appropriate lengths.


STEP 2:  Cut the plywood strips to length
I set my circular saw blade and a speed square to cut the plywood strips to the appropriate lengths.
×

Step 7. Add support beam
I clamped down a straight edge and then cut strips off of the plywood to use as supports for the underside of the table. I also cut off the corners to make additional supports and to give the tabletop a cool shape.


Step 7. Add support beam
I clamped down a straight edge and then cut strips off of the plywood to use as supports for the underside of the table.  I also cut off the corners to make additional supports and to give the tabletop a cool shape.
×

STEP 3: Glue the strips together
I used wood glue and clamps to turn the strips of plywood into two long beams that will make up the front and back of the frame for the sofa.


STEP 3: Glue the strips together
I used wood glue and clamps to turn the strips of plywood into two long beams that will make up the front and back of the frame for the sofa.
×

Step 4. Assemble the frame.
I cut pieces to fit in between the front and back beams and then glued and screwed them together. I kept adding overlapping layers of plywood making sure that no screw heads show from the top.



Step 4. Assemble the frame.
I cut pieces to fit in between the front and back beams and then glued and screwed them together. I kept adding overlapping layers of plywood making sure that no screw heads show from the top.
×

Step 5. Sand the frame. I sanded the frame with my orbital sander to make all the plywood edges flush and smooth.


Step 5. Sand the frame.  I sanded the frame with my orbital sander to make all the plywood edges flush and smooth.
×

Step 8. Add angled filler strip
I ripped a thin strip of ¾” plywood with the blade on my circular saw set to a 45 degree angle. I then glued this strip to the front beam. I tested the fit for the seat piece of plywood and then sanded down the angled strip a bit so that I got a nice fit with the seat piece.



Step 8. Add angled filler strip
I ripped a thin strip of ¾” plywood with the blade on my circular saw set to a 45 degree angle.  I then glued this strip to the front beam. I tested the fit for the seat piece of plywood and then sanded down the angled strip a bit so that I got a nice fit with the seat piece.
×

Step 9 screw in the seat
I screwed the seat piece of plywood in place. This piece sticks out past the frame a little bit so I just sanded it flush with my orbital sander.


Step 9 screw in the seat
I screwed the seat piece of plywood in place.  This piece sticks out past the frame a little bit so I just sanded it flush with my orbital sander.
×

Step 6 Add the legs
I aadded the legs in two stages. First I glued together 3” wide strips of plywood 2 or 3 at a time. I then glued and screwed these pieces to the underside of the frame.


Step 6 Add the legs
I aadded the legs in two stages.  First I glued together 3” wide strips of plywood 2 or 3 at a time. I then glued and screwed these pieces to the underside of the frame.
×

STEP 10: add the back rest
I set the back rest in place and then held a 3” wide strip of plywood to the angle of the back rest and traced the line. I cut triangular pieces to fit between the backrest and frame.


STEP 10:  add the back rest
I set the back rest in place and then held a 3” wide strip of plywood to the angle of the back rest and traced the line.  I cut triangular pieces to fit between the backrest and frame.
×

Step 11: add back rest supports
I glued 5 layers of plywood triangles together and then sanded the edges flush. I then glued and screwed these supports to the back rest. I did not screw them to the frame because I want the sofa to come apart so that it is easy to move.


Step 11: add back rest supports
I glued 5 layers of plywood triangles together and then sanded the edges flush.  I then glued and screwed these supports to the back rest.  I did not screw them to the frame because I want the sofa to come apart so that it is easy to move.
×

Step 12 seal the plywood
I sealed the plywood with minwax polycrylic in a satin finish.


Step 12 seal the plywood
I sealed the plywood with minwax polycrylic in a satin finish.
×

Step 7. Add support beam
I clamped down a straight edge and then cut strips off of the plywood to use as supports for the underside of the table. I also cut off the corners to make additional supports and to give the tabletop a cool shape.


Step 7. Add support beam
I clamped down a straight edge and then cut strips off of the plywood to use as supports for the underside of the table.  I also cut off the corners to make additional supports and to give the tabletop a cool shape.
×

DIY Leather cushions
I used the same cushion technique that we developed for the ZigZag sofa which you can see here: http://www.homemade-modern.com/ep108-zig-zag-sofa/



DIY Leather cushions
I used the same cushion technique that we developed for the ZigZag sofa which you can see here:  http://www.homemade-modern.com/ep108-zig-zag-sofa/
×

Step 8. Add angled filler strip
I ripped a thin strip of ¾” plywood with the blade on my circular saw set to a 45 degree angle. I then glued this strip to the front beam. I tested the fit for the seat piece of plywood and then sanded down the angled strip a bit so that I got a nice fit with the seat piece.



Step 8. Add angled filler strip
I ripped a thin strip of ¾” plywood with the blade on my circular saw set to a 45 degree angle.  I then glued this strip to the front beam. I tested the fit for the seat piece of plywood and then sanded down the angled strip a bit so that I got a nice fit with the seat piece.
×

Step 9 screw in the seat
I screwed the seat piece of plywood in place. This piece sticks out past the frame a little bit so I just sanded it flush with my orbital sander.


Step 9 screw in the seat
I screwed the seat piece of plywood in place.  This piece sticks out past the frame a little bit so I just sanded it flush with my orbital sander.
×

STEP 10: add the back rest
I set the back rest in place and then held a 3” wide strip of plywood to the angle of the back rest and traced the line. I cut triangular pieces to fit between the backrest and frame.


STEP 10:  add the back rest
I set the back rest in place and then held a 3” wide strip of plywood to the angle of the back rest and traced the line.  I cut triangular pieces to fit between the backrest and frame.
×

Step 11: add back rest supports
I glued 5 layers of plywood triangles together and then sanded the edges flush. I then glued and screwed these supports to the back rest. I did not screw them to the frame because I want the sofa to come apart so that it is easy to move.


Step 11: add back rest supports
I glued 5 layers of plywood triangles together and then sanded the edges flush.  I then glued and screwed these supports to the back rest.  I did not screw them to the frame because I want the sofa to come apart so that it is easy to move.
×

Step 12 seal the plywood
I sealed the plywood with minwax polycrylic in a satin finish.


Step 12 seal the plywood
I sealed the plywood with minwax polycrylic in a satin finish.
×

DIY Leather cushions
I used the same cushion technique that we developed for the ZigZag sofa which you can see here: http://www.homemade-modern.com/ep108-zig-zag-sofa/



DIY Leather cushions
I used the same cushion technique that we developed for the ZigZag sofa which you can see here:  http://www.homemade-modern.com/ep108-zig-zag-sofa/
×
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RYOBI Nation Creative Team
RYOBI Nation Creative Team

Woah! Digging this simple and modern sofa. Very cool!

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Homemade Modern

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Project Information

Difficulty: Intermediate
Category: Furniture

Materials Used:

  • leather

  • foam cushions- lux foam with dacron wrap 3" x 18" x 66"

  • foam cushions- lux foam- high quality with dacron wrap. 3" x 24" x 66"

  • minwax polycrylic

  • 2-1/2 sheets of 3/4" thick sanded pine Plywood


also by Homemade Modern


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