Add Your Project

  • Home
  • Projects
  • Furniture
  • [#<Breadcrumb:0x00007f0cf4672480 @title="Home", @path="/nation">, #<Breadcrumb:0x00007f0cf4671fd0 @title="Projects", @path="/nation/projects">, #<Breadcrumb:0x00007f0cf46ae520 @title="Furniture", @path="/nation/how-tos/category/furniture">]

DIY Mid Century Modern End Table / Side Table

  • August 4, 2017

Modern Builds
Modern Builds
Modern Builds
Modern Builds

This week I built a really minimal Mid-Century inspired side table. All the cuts were made with just a circular saw and smoothed out with my belt sander. This written step by step instructions are complimentary to the build video, which goes into a bit more detail.

Show More

Print Options

  1. Project Steps

    1. Step: 1

      I clamped the pieces down to my table top so that the pieces would stay flat and nothing could move once I lined it up. I added wood glue to the joints and added screws.

    2. Step: 2

      After the glue dried I attached the legs to the box by making lines going from corner to corner on the bottom of the box, then incremental marks every inch from the corners. This made it so that i could line everything up square and symmetrical. I attached the base with more pocket screws making sure the side with the holes are facing the back of the table.

    3. Step: 3

      I made the drawer the simplest I could think. I just screwed the four side pieces together with recessed screws (I used my pocket hole jig drill bit) and then attached the plywood bottom to that. The drawer face will be attached later.

    4. Step: 4

      I chose to make wooden drawer slides. I hadn't done them before but had wanted to try for a while. They worked nicely, but you could always buy a set of drawer slides for just a few bucks. I attached some 3/8" strips of scrap plywood from my cutoff pile to the side of the drawer with wood glue and some small pin nails.

    5. Step: 5

      Then, I attached two more pieces of plywood to the inside of the box spaced just enough apart the drawer can slide in with minimal wiggle room

    6. Step: 6

      You want it to be snug but still free to move. If it's not sliding great, adding a bit of paste wax will help it out.

    7. Step: 7

      I decided to make my own drawer pull as well. I cut some scrap leather I had into an 1.25" strip and contact cemented the two ends together making a simple "loop".

    8. Step: 8

      I attached the pull with a nice brass screw and washer. I was surprised. It worked really well! and to finish everything off, I added a coat of boiled linseed oil. If you want something a bit more rugged, Polycrylic may be a better choice.

    9. Step: 9

      To start, I set my saw to cut at 45° and cut the pieces for the main case or "box" for the table. I cut them in sequential order so that the grain would flow from piece to piece once it's all glued up.

    10. Step: 10

      Next, I lined up my pieces in order against a straight edge and taped the seams. I'd normally use masking tape but I was out.

    11. Step: 11

      I added glue to the inside of the joints and then closed up the box, closing the last joint with another piece of tape.

    12. Step: 12

      To reinforce the joints as well as add a little visual intrigue, I drilled and inserted dowels along the top and bottom edge of the box. I used a "flush trim saw" to trim the off.

    13. Step: 13

      With the box finished, I moved on to creating the base. I started by drawing out the lines for the legs based on the diagram at the top of the instructions. I cut the tapers out with the circular saw and smoothed everything out with my belt sander clamped upside down on my workbench.

    14. Step: 14

      I used my Kreg pocket hole jig to make pocket hole on the ends of the "stretchers" where they will attach to the legs.

Comments (5)


  • this looks awesome and a great project to attempt. Thanks
    By rybena, on August 4, 2017

  • Simple, sleek, impressive. Love it!
    By RYOBI Nation, on August 18, 2017

  • The detailed steps seem out of order here.
    By GeraldHinton, on October 15, 2018

  • I want to try and build this table but I can't find the plans anywhere.  If anybody can point me towards the right direction I will be much grateful.

    By rudeboy_woodworker, on November 15, 2018

  • Do we really need 2 sets of 2 - 8 FOOT MAPLE 1X8? Like 4 8 FOOT MAPLE 1X8? 

    Or we just need  2- 8 FOOT MAPLE 1X8? can someone help me ?
    By user_chinnam_1264314, on August 21, 2019

Members Also Viewed

Print Options

Print Project

back to top?

Asset 1

Join RYOBI Nation

We're so glad you're here! Let's get started.

Welcome to Ryobi Nation!

Please confirm your email address.

Welcome

Let's build your project feed!

Select some categories to pick the kinds of projects that show up on your home page:


Welcome to Nation

welcome_r2 graphic
Welcome to your RYOBI Nation quick start guide, a fast and easy way to see everything that's waiting for you!
project_feed_r1 graphic
Your feed shows the latest projects from the categories you’ve selected, right on your homepage!
upload_r2 graphic
Are you working on something awesome? Upload your DIY projects today, and share with other members.
contests_r2 graphic
We award monthly and annual prizes for the best projects, worth up to $2500 in RYOBI tools! That’s a lot of hardware, and it could all be yours.
connect_r2 graphic
RYOBI Nation is a positive connection between people who are creating great things.
You can follow fellow members, like their projects, and comment to let them know they’re doing a great job.
notifications_r1 graphic
Come back to RYOBI Nation often to see what is new and to stay in touch.
If you're on a mobile device, don't forget you can add RYOBI Nation to your home screen for quick access to your project feed.

Update Image

DIY Mid Century Modern End Table / Side Table

by Modern Builds
Aug 04, 2017

This week I built a really minimal Mid-Century inspired side table. All the cuts were made with just a circular saw and smoothed out with my belt sander. This written step by step instructions are complimentary to the build video, which goes into a bit more detail.

Project Steps

  1. Step: 1

    I clamped the pieces down to my table top so that the pieces would stay flat and nothing could move once I lined it up. I added wood glue to the joints and added screws.

  2. Step: 2

    After the glue dried I attached the legs to the box by making lines going from corner to corner on the bottom of the box, then incremental marks every inch from the corners. This made it so that i could line everything up square and symmetrical. I attached the base with more pocket screws making sure the side with the holes are facing the back of the table.

  3. Step: 3

    I made the drawer the simplest I could think. I just screwed the four side pieces together with recessed screws (I used my pocket hole jig drill bit) and then attached the plywood bottom to that. The drawer face will be attached later.

  4. Step: 4

    I chose to make wooden drawer slides. I hadn't done them before but had wanted to try for a while. They worked nicely, but you could always buy a set of drawer slides for just a few bucks. I attached some 3/8" strips of scrap plywood from my cutoff pile to the side of the drawer with wood glue and some small pin nails.

  5. Step: 5

    Then, I attached two more pieces of plywood to the inside of the box spaced just enough apart the drawer can slide in with minimal wiggle room

  6. Step: 6

    You want it to be snug but still free to move. If it's not sliding great, adding a bit of paste wax will help it out.

  7. Step: 7

    I decided to make my own drawer pull as well. I cut some scrap leather I had into an 1.25" strip and contact cemented the two ends together making a simple "loop".

  8. Step: 8

    I attached the pull with a nice brass screw and washer. I was surprised. It worked really well! and to finish everything off, I added a coat of boiled linseed oil. If you want something a bit more rugged, Polycrylic may be a better choice.

  9. Step: 9

    To start, I set my saw to cut at 45° and cut the pieces for the main case or "box" for the table. I cut them in sequential order so that the grain would flow from piece to piece once it's all glued up.

  10. Step: 10

    Next, I lined up my pieces in order against a straight edge and taped the seams. I'd normally use masking tape but I was out.

  11. Step: 11

    I added glue to the inside of the joints and then closed up the box, closing the last joint with another piece of tape.

  12. Step: 12

    To reinforce the joints as well as add a little visual intrigue, I drilled and inserted dowels along the top and bottom edge of the box. I used a "flush trim saw" to trim the off.

  13. Step: 13

    With the box finished, I moved on to creating the base. I started by drawing out the lines for the legs based on the diagram at the top of the instructions. I cut the tapers out with the circular saw and smoothed everything out with my belt sander clamped upside down on my workbench.

  14. Step: 14

    I used my Kreg pocket hole jig to make pocket hole on the ends of the "stretchers" where they will attach to the legs.