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DIY Changing Table


RYOBI Nation
RYOBI Nation
RYOBI Nation
RYOBI Nation

A modern twist on a new parent necessity!

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  1. Project Steps

    1. Step: 1

      CUT LIST: (4) 2x2x36.50”; (10) 1x2x15.50”; (9) 1x2x32.50”; (3) ¾”x15.50” x 32.50” plywood; Underlayment (cut to fit)

    2. Step: 2

      Cut four pieces of 2x2 to 36.50” for the legs. Hint: Make sure the 2x2’s you purchase are S4S or “square 4 sides” instead of the 2x2’s with rounded edges.

    3. Step: 3

      Pre-cut all of your 1x2 to length for the shelf supports and trim: Nine lateral supports to 32.50” Ten side supports to 15.50”

    4. Step: 4

      Pre-drill ¾” pocket holes into both ends of the nine 1x2x 32.50” lateral supports. Pre-drill ¾” pocket holes into both ends of only eight of the 1x2 x 15.50” side supports.

    5. Step: 5

      Pre-cut three shelves out of sanded ¾” plywood to 32.50” x 15.50” then pre-drill ¾” pocket holes into all 4 sides on what will be the bottom. You can have them pre-cut your material at your local home center.

    6. Step: 6

      Attach the 32.50” lateral and 15.50” side supports to the 2x2 legs with 1-1/4” pocket holes on three sides (excluding the back) with the holes facing inward (to be hidden later) and flush with the inside corners. Level 1 – flush with top Level 2 – 4” from the top Level 3 – 18.75” from the bottom Level 4 – 5.50” from the bottom Line your legs up and mark the height of the supports at the same time. Assemble the 15.50” sides first and then attach the longer 32.50” lateral supports last.

    7. Step: 7

      With the plywood shelving facing downward (and pocket holes facing upward), attach the 32.50” lateral supports using 1-1/4” screws. The top and bottom shelves (in purple) will have the 1x2 lip facing downward when attaching while the middle shelf (orange) will have the 1x2 lip facing upward while attaching. Hint: Use scrap ¾” material under the top and bottom shelf to get a flush edge when attaching the 1x2 to the plywood.

    8. Step: 8

      Starting with the top shelf, slide the shelf in place from the back with the pocket holes on the plywood facing down. Then attach with pre-drilled pocket holes and 1-1/4” screws from underneath. The top and bottom shelf will create a tray with the 1x2’s while the middle shelf will sit flush.

    9. Step: 9

      Using the same 5.50” spacing as the top, attach the last two 15.50” side support using wood glue and a brad gun. There should be no pocket holes on these pieces. Using the pre-drill pocket holes, attach the 32.50” lateral support to the top and middle with the pocket holes facing the back.

    10. Step: 10

      Cut the 24” x 48” underlayment for the bottom shelf cubby. Measure the inside for both sides first (should be roughly 13.25” x 15.50”). Dry fit the side pieces into place and then measure for the backer board (should be roughly 32.25” x 13.25”). Attach with wood glue and brad nails to the lip created by the 1x2 supports from the middle and bottom shelves. Hint: If your cuts or your assembly was slightly off and the underlayment doesn’t quite meet, you can patch the gap with caulk before painting.

    11. Step: 11

      Use the remaining underlayment and measure the inside top shelf for the final compartment backer boards. The lateral pieces should be roughly 4.75” x 32.50” and the sides 4.75” x 15.25”. Attach with wood glue and brad nails.

    12. Step: 12

      Patch and visible nail holes with wood putty and patch any gaps with trim caulk and allow to dry. Sand and paint to desired finish. Projects Finished Dimensions: 36.50” H x 35.50” W x 18.50” D

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DIY Changing Table

by RYOBI Nation
Mar 25, 2019

A modern twist on a new parent necessity!

Project Steps

  1. Step: 1

    CUT LIST: (4) 2x2x36.50”; (10) 1x2x15.50”; (9) 1x2x32.50”; (3) ¾”x15.50” x 32.50” plywood; Underlayment (cut to fit)

  2. Step: 2

    Cut four pieces of 2x2 to 36.50” for the legs. Hint: Make sure the 2x2’s you purchase are S4S or “square 4 sides” instead of the 2x2’s with rounded edges.

  3. Step: 3

    Pre-cut all of your 1x2 to length for the shelf supports and trim: Nine lateral supports to 32.50” Ten side supports to 15.50”

  4. Step: 4

    Pre-drill ¾” pocket holes into both ends of the nine 1x2x 32.50” lateral supports. Pre-drill ¾” pocket holes into both ends of only eight of the 1x2 x 15.50” side supports.

  5. Step: 5

    Pre-cut three shelves out of sanded ¾” plywood to 32.50” x 15.50” then pre-drill ¾” pocket holes into all 4 sides on what will be the bottom. You can have them pre-cut your material at your local home center.

  6. Step: 6

    Attach the 32.50” lateral and 15.50” side supports to the 2x2 legs with 1-1/4” pocket holes on three sides (excluding the back) with the holes facing inward (to be hidden later) and flush with the inside corners. Level 1 – flush with top Level 2 – 4” from the top Level 3 – 18.75” from the bottom Level 4 – 5.50” from the bottom Line your legs up and mark the height of the supports at the same time. Assemble the 15.50” sides first and then attach the longer 32.50” lateral supports last.

  7. Step: 7

    With the plywood shelving facing downward (and pocket holes facing upward), attach the 32.50” lateral supports using 1-1/4” screws. The top and bottom shelves (in purple) will have the 1x2 lip facing downward when attaching while the middle shelf (orange) will have the 1x2 lip facing upward while attaching. Hint: Use scrap ¾” material under the top and bottom shelf to get a flush edge when attaching the 1x2 to the plywood.

  8. Step: 8

    Starting with the top shelf, slide the shelf in place from the back with the pocket holes on the plywood facing down. Then attach with pre-drilled pocket holes and 1-1/4” screws from underneath. The top and bottom shelf will create a tray with the 1x2’s while the middle shelf will sit flush.

  9. Step: 9

    Using the same 5.50” spacing as the top, attach the last two 15.50” side support using wood glue and a brad gun. There should be no pocket holes on these pieces. Using the pre-drill pocket holes, attach the 32.50” lateral support to the top and middle with the pocket holes facing the back.

  10. Step: 10

    Cut the 24” x 48” underlayment for the bottom shelf cubby. Measure the inside for both sides first (should be roughly 13.25” x 15.50”). Dry fit the side pieces into place and then measure for the backer board (should be roughly 32.25” x 13.25”). Attach with wood glue and brad nails to the lip created by the 1x2 supports from the middle and bottom shelves. Hint: If your cuts or your assembly was slightly off and the underlayment doesn’t quite meet, you can patch the gap with caulk before painting.

  11. Step: 11

    Use the remaining underlayment and measure the inside top shelf for the final compartment backer boards. The lateral pieces should be roughly 4.75” x 32.50” and the sides 4.75” x 15.25”. Attach with wood glue and brad nails.

  12. Step: 12

    Patch and visible nail holes with wood putty and patch any gaps with trim caulk and allow to dry. Sand and paint to desired finish. Projects Finished Dimensions: 36.50” H x 35.50” W x 18.50” D