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DESK
  • DESK

DESK

Bring your love of woodworking into your home with this workbench style desk. Made from pine lumber, it’s sturdy, stylish, and inexpensive to make.

**Exclusive Feature**:
Click here to download Ana's blueprints for this How-To!

Cut List
2 - 1x4 @ 39-3/4” - both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, NOT parallel, long point to long point measurement (top aprons, front and back)
1 - 1x4 @ 46-3/4” - both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, NOT parallel, long point to long point measurement (back base support)
2 - 1x4 @ 16-1/4” - (back vertical supports)
4 - 2x6 @ 29-3/4” - both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, ends ARE parallel, long point to short point measurement (legs)
4 - 1x4 @ 21” (side aprons and base supports)
2 - 1x4 @ 29-3/4” - both ends cut at 45 degrees, ends ARE parallel, long point to short point measurement (side cross supports)
1 - 2x6 @ 30-3/4” - both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, ends ARE parallel, long point to short point measurement (decorative front leg)
2 - 1x2 @ 24” (side top trim)
1 - 1x2 @ 61-1/2” (back top trim)
Cut front top trim to fit - angle will be 10 degrees

Steps


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I used a pocket hole jig and my Ryobi Compact 18 Volt drill to build the back and the main pieces.


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Next, I added the legs to the center part of the back. I kept pocket holes on the outside since my desk will be against a wall. If your desk is floating in the room, you may wish to place pocket holes on inside.


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The front is similar to the back, just without the bottom base support and vertical supports.


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With the front and back pieces done, I used the side aprons and side base supports to attach the front and back. It really started looking like a desk here!

TIP: Before attaching front and back, drill 3/4” pocket holes facing upward in all aprons on inside for attaching the top in later steps.


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For the cross supports, I placed them in position, used a pencil to mark the excess overhang, and cut off with the miter saw (you could also cut off with jigsaw or circular saw). Then I attached with my Ryobi AirStrike Nailer and glue.


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Attach top through predrilled holes - will be flush to front and back of project panel. Split the end overhangs evenly.


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To give the desk true workbench styling, I added a fifth leg on top of the left front leg. I just glued it and clamped it.

TIP: It’s easier (especially with this sander!) to sand off marks before attaching.


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Cut boards to trim out the top. I choose to use my AirStrike stapler to attach so the staple heads showed through - so pretty!


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Enjoy your desk and new workspace--you deserve it!

**Exclusive Feature**:
Click here to download Ana's blueprints for this How-To!


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Ana White

Ana White

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  • Click here to download Ana's blueprints for this How-To! Cut List 2 - 1x4 @ 39-3/4” - both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, NOT parallel, long point to long point measurement (top aprons, front and back) 1 - 1x4 @ 46-3/4” - both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, NOT parallel, long point to long point measurement (back base support) 2 - 1x4 @ 16-1/4” - (back vertical supports) 4 - 2x6 @ 29-3/4” - both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, ends ARE parallel, long point to short point measurement (legs) 4 - 1x4 @ 21” (side aprons and base supports) 2 - 1x4 @ 29-3/4” - both ends cut at 45 degrees, ends ARE parallel, long point to short point measurement (side cross supports) 1 - 2x6 @ 30-3/4” - both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, ends ARE parallel, long point to short point measurement (decorative front leg) 2 - 1x2 @ 24” (side top trim) 1 - 1x2 @ 61-1/2” (back top trim) Cut front top trim to fit - angle will be 10 degrees" st_username='ryobipowertools'>
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Project Information

Difficulty: Easy

Materials Used:

  • 4 - 1x4 pine or whitewood boards 8 feet long

  • 2 - 1x2 pine or whitewood boards 8 feet long

  • 2 - 2x6 pine or whitewood boards 8 feet long

  • 24x60 pine project panel

  • 1-1/4” and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws

  • 1-1/4” staples

  • Wood glue

  • Handle or knob

  • Optional decorative vise

  • also by Ana White


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