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Member Since: 02/2013

Project Likes: 0


    • What a great project!! Would you mind offering a couple more steps/details on how you built this? We love it!
      By ryobinationrocks, on August 19, 2013

    • Congratulations!!
      By pointfndr, on September 6, 2013

    • Thank you everyone! I have not been able to sign in to my account since I entered this. :( I WILL post additional info and steps on this in the next couple of days! It was a very fun project to make!
      By MrMagnet, on September 6, 2013

    • Additional Details on how to make this: One of the most important details, is that you make a deep enough cut out into the uprights for the wood part (not the bark) of the bench log (and seat back) to fit in. You want to allow a bit of space on each lateral side so that you are not carving too close to the edges of the uprights. You also do not want to go too deep so that there is no mass left. You want to be able to go deep enough to offer substantial support to the bench without sacrificing the integrity of the uprights. When you are carving, remember that you need to leave ample length on the bench and back for the peg system to extend thru the upright. Don't make the mistake of cutting the ends of the bench flush when sizing and carving the uprights! Once you get the weight bearing platform carved out in the uprights, then measure and cut out the holes for the peg system to protrude thru the log. Be sure to leave enough length so that you can put the final peg thru the protruding part, as that is what holds it all together. Proper log selection goes a long way to making sure you can build a safe bench. The older and bigger logs work best, as they give you more substance to work with when carving the weight bearing portion. Good, clean, straight cuts of your logs go a long way in making this project work. If you don't have a band saw with proper supports to guide your cut, invest in a visit to a local word working shop that does and have them make those cuts for you. Measure twice, cut once really applies here!. Grab your T and use it heavily in making the grid lines and markings. Pencil it all out and make sure you really like it before you start painting. Grab a calculator if you need to. Just keep measuring and marking. Start with the center of the seat and the back. Mark it off on both. That's your 50 yard line. Now do the math for either the back or the seat and mirror your lines in the opposite component. Get a good set of stencils for the numbers so they look nice and uniform. Make sure they stand up to all the repeated uses of the 0. This is the most tedious part, but if done right, really makes a difference. I personally prefer the rustic look, so I prefer to only prep the actual wood and not the bark portion of the seat and back before painting. Once the grid is complete, apply your final top coats of sealant to protect the grid from the weather. I hope I have filled in the missing blanks. Glad you all liked it so much!
      By MrMagnet, on September 7, 2013
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