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LOUNGE CHAIR



The ultimate in whiling away an afternoon is the rocking chair. This chair is a modern fusion of an Adirondack chair and a rocking chair. It’s a bit of a low rider, which makes it a little tough to get in, but once you do, it’s so comfortable that you won’t want to get out. I made a pair of these for my parents’ patio and they are frequently put to good use for late-night chats around a fire pit.

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  1. Project Steps

    1. Step: 1

      Cut a 12' long 2x12 in half. You will need two pieces of 2x12 that are at least 6’-10’ long for this project. I recommend buying a single 12’ long 2x12 and having it cut at the store for you.

    2. Step: 2

      Use the template to mark cuts. Download and print the template and glue it to one of the 2 x12s. You will use this template as a cutting guide so try to make sure that the edges are glued down and won’t flap when you are cutting. The template is large but can be printed at any Kinkos.

    3. Step: 3

      Cut the curves. Use a jigsaw to make the curved cuts. Make sure that your blade is both sharp and designed for wood.

    4. Step: 4

      Transfer the curve. Use the piece as a stencil for the second piece of wood. Simply put it on top of the uncut piece and trace around it with a pencil.

    5. Step: 5

      Cut the second piece. The more accurate you are with the cut the less time you will have to spend sanding later.

    6. Step: 6

      Screw the pieces together. Using five or so 2 1/2” deck screws, screw the pieces together so that you can sand the edges of both at the same time.

    7. Step: 7

      Sand and shape the runners. This is the step that takes the most patience and time. I used a belt sander with 50 grit belts to shape the edges and make them identical to each other. It is helpful to use a couple of L brackets to secure the pieces to a work surface. Once the runners have identical profiles repeat the same process with the two back pieces.

    8. Step: 8

      Screw on the back. Use five 2 ½” deck screws to attach the back pieces to the runners. Cut some of the scrap pieces into braces that are 24” long and use L brackets to connect the two runners.

    9. Step: 9

      Cut cross pieces. Cut the trim boars into 24” long pieces for the seat and 21” long pieces for the back.

    10. Step: 10

      Screw on the cross pieces. Drive one 1” screw on each end of the trim pieces and into the runners. If the trim boards split you will need to pre-drill the holes through them.

    11. Step: 11

      Stain and seal. Finish with a light sanding before applying Danish oil. If you want to use the piece outside, also apply a water sealant.

Comments (8)


  • Materials used is missing the metal bar for support
    By sus4, on November 13, 2014

  • Hi, nice work. On the video you say that the canvas will be available at the website but I can't find it.
    By fboss1978, on January 21, 2015

  • Hi, your plans do not detail where the back is attached in relationship to the bottom. Can you tell me the dimension from the front of the legs? Thanks
    By v2fast2hit, on March 12, 2015

  • Hello and thanks for the questions and comments! Sus4, Yes the 18" pipe and 2 flanges was left out because depending on the size of the slats it may not be needed. I have versions of these chairs with thicker slats and without any middle support. A 2x4 and 4 L-brackets is cheaper alternative that works as well. fboss1978 the template is available on this page where it says "Download and print the template " v2fast2hit There are a few reasons I don’t indicate it. Measurements on curved surfaces are often misinterpreted. Depending on how you cut and sand this the location of 2 reference points could be off. The template is sanded off already so I a mark on that would not be helpful. Lastly different people like different angles and different locations for the back depending on the height. Since we are screw from the inside its ok to try a couple angles and see what you like before the slats go on.
    By Homemade Modern, on April 30, 2015

  • hi can e-mail me the template plan for this project i can't find it in the web side. thanks,
    By M.A.N. Essa, on January 5, 2017
    • Under "project steps", step number 2 has a blue link you can click on for the template. Hope this helps!
      By RYOBI NATION, on April 13, 2018

  • pls e-mail me the template plan for this project. thanks,
    By gassave, on April 4, 2018
    • gassave, click on "project steps", step number 2 has a blue link you can click on for the template. Hope this helps!
      By RYOBI NATION, on April 13, 2018

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LOUNGE CHAIR

by Homemade Modern
Oct 24, 2014

The ultimate in whiling away an afternoon is the rocking chair. This chair is a modern fusion of an Adirondack chair and a rocking chair. It’s a bit of a low rider, which makes it a little tough to get in, but once you do, it’s so comfortable that you won’t want to get out. I made a pair of these for my parents’ patio and they are frequently put to good use for late-night chats around a fire pit.

Project Steps

  1. Step: 1

    Cut a 12' long 2x12 in half. You will need two pieces of 2x12 that are at least 6’-10’ long for this project. I recommend buying a single 12’ long 2x12 and having it cut at the store for you.

  2. Step: 2

    Use the template to mark cuts. Download and print the template and glue it to one of the 2 x12s. You will use this template as a cutting guide so try to make sure that the edges are glued down and won’t flap when you are cutting. The template is large but can be printed at any Kinkos.

  3. Step: 3

    Cut the curves. Use a jigsaw to make the curved cuts. Make sure that your blade is both sharp and designed for wood.

  4. Step: 4

    Transfer the curve. Use the piece as a stencil for the second piece of wood. Simply put it on top of the uncut piece and trace around it with a pencil.

  5. Step: 5

    Cut the second piece. The more accurate you are with the cut the less time you will have to spend sanding later.

  6. Step: 6

    Screw the pieces together. Using five or so 2 1/2” deck screws, screw the pieces together so that you can sand the edges of both at the same time.

  7. Step: 7

    Sand and shape the runners. This is the step that takes the most patience and time. I used a belt sander with 50 grit belts to shape the edges and make them identical to each other. It is helpful to use a couple of L brackets to secure the pieces to a work surface. Once the runners have identical profiles repeat the same process with the two back pieces.

  8. Step: 8

    Screw on the back. Use five 2 ½” deck screws to attach the back pieces to the runners. Cut some of the scrap pieces into braces that are 24” long and use L brackets to connect the two runners.

  9. Step: 9

    Cut cross pieces. Cut the trim boars into 24” long pieces for the seat and 21” long pieces for the back.

  10. Step: 10

    Screw on the cross pieces. Drive one 1” screw on each end of the trim pieces and into the runners. If the trim boards split you will need to pre-drill the holes through them.

  11. Step: 11

    Stain and seal. Finish with a light sanding before applying Danish oil. If you want to use the piece outside, also apply a water sealant.