Cut boards according to the cut list using your compound miter saw. Do not cut crown moulding or base moulding yet – that should be cut to fit.
Drill Pocket Holes
Drill ¾” pocket holes at all joints on 1x12 boards.
TIP: Also drill ¾” pocket holes facing forward for attaching header board in Step 5 and 6.
Building the Carcass
Assemble the carcass by attaching through predrilled pocket holes with 1-1/4” pocket hole screws and glue.
Adjust for square
When your carcass is complete, take a second to measure diagonally from outside corner to opposite outside corner (at a diagonal). Do this on both sides and adjust carcass until diagonals match.
Header and Footer Boards
Cut the header and trim boards according to cut list. Attach the two header boards together using ¾” pocket holes and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws on back side.
Attach Header and Footer Boards
Use glue and 1-1/4” brad nails to attach header and footer boards to front of carcass. Also attach through predrilled pocket holes from Step 2 with 1-1/4” pocket hole screws and glue.
Measure and cut base moulding to fit the bottom of the cabinet. Miter corners at 45 degrees. Apply glue and attach with 1” finish nails.
Measure and cut crown moulding to fit the top of the cabinet. Miter corners. Apply glue and attach with 1” finish nails.
The doors are just 1x12 boards. You can add panel moulding (cut with the mitersaw and attached with the brad nailer), and also a 1x2 that serves as a handle. The 1x2 will also help prevent the door from cupping. Attach 1x2 from back side with 2” wood screws and glue.
Use hidden euro style hinges to attach doors to carcass.
Enjoy your new freestanding fireplace!