This DIY media console is made from a sheet of ¾” plywood, some cedar clapboard siding and some copper pipe. I experimented with different options for both the legs and the cabinet pulls.
Cut the cedar
I cut the cedar siding to length on my miter saw and used my table saw to rip down one of the pieces for the top of the cabinet door.
Assemble the door
I glued the pieces of cedar together to make a panel to use as the cabinet door. I used clamps to hold the pieces in place while the glue dried.
Cut the Plywood
I had the 4x8 sheet cut into 12" wide strips at Home Depot. One of the strips will be a little narrower than the others since some of the material gets turned into sawdust by the blade. I used my compound miter saw to cut the the strips of plywood to the appropriate lengths.
Make the side panels
I glued and screwed pieces of plywood together to make the side panels and the middle portion for the cabinet.
Drill through the side and middle panels
I clamped the side and middle panels together and then drilled through both of them to make a hole for the copper pipe.
Make the top and bottom panels
I screwed together the pieces for the top and bottom panels of the cabinet. I used scrap pieces of plywood as spacers to make the gaps needed for the side and middle panels.
Assemble the cabinet
I then put the panels together and measured the inside of the cabinet. I then cut a piece of 1 ¼" by 1 ¼" fir baluster to act as a door stop and a piece of 2x3 act as an inside support. I used finish screws to fasten the cabnet and screwed the 2x3 support in place
Patch the edges
I used wood putty to patch up any cracks or holes along the edges of the panels and to cover the heads of the finish screws.
Install magnets in the door stop
While I was waiting for the wood putty to dry I drilled holes in the piece of fir baluster I cut for the door stop. I drilled the holes almost all of the way through so that the magnets could be placed inside and attract each other through the thin bit of wood that was left while remaining invisible from the outside. I then used a 2-part epoxy to glue the magnets in the holes.
Stain the door and door stop
I finished the cedar door and fir door stop with a coat of Danish oil.
Sand the cabinet
I used an orbital sander to sand down the edges of the cabinet. I used a hand held sanding sponge to sand over the heads of the finish screws.
I painted the cabinet with 2 coats of BEHR interior paint with a matte finish in the color "Midnight Blue".
Install door stop
I screwed the door stop in place.
Install copper pipe
I used my hand held tube cutter to cut a piece of ½" copper pipe and then hammered it into the holes in the side panels.
I snapped some pipe straps around the copper pipe and then hot glued the straps to the back side of the door to hold it in place while I drove small screws through the straps and into the wood door.
Install door magnets
I used 2 part epoxy to glue 2 magnets to the inside of the door so that they aligned with the magnets that were embedded in the door stop. This makes the door catch and stay closed.
Make the cabinet pulls:
Option 1: concrete cabinet pull The first cabinet pull I made was out of concrete. I used a silicone ice cube tray filled with Quikrete concrete mix to make the pulls. While the concrete mix was curing I stuck in some mechanical bolts.
Option 2: stone cabinet pulls
I made the 2nd cabinet pull by drilling a shallow hole in a stone that I found and then glued the head of the bolt into that hole using 2-part epoxy. Either one of the pulls will work I just wanted to try different looks.
Install the pull
I drilled a hole through the top of the door and then poked the bolt of the cabinet pull through before screwing on a nut and washer.
Leg option 1: Shelf brackets
I screwed on IKEA shelf brackets which are a great affordable option.
Leg Option 2: Hairpin legs
Hairpin legs look better but also cost a bit more than brackets.
Leg Option 3 DIY legs
I also made a set of legs out of 2x3s.
Here is bonus video that shows how I did it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-8gG0pvOkPc