RYOBI Tools

Tips & Techniques

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Read your manual and follow all guidelines

This website and the information contained in it is NOT designed to replace your manual. You need to read your manual and completely understand all requirements before operating your Circular Saw.

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Do not remove the blade guard

The blade guard will not hinder any cuts you plan to make. It is not meant to be removed.

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Always wear safety glasses when operating your Circular Saw

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Always disconnect the power source before making adjustments

Whether you're changing the blade, or adjusting the angle and depth of the saw, always make sure to disconnect the power source.

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Wait until the blade makes a complete stop after a cut before moving the saw

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If using a corded Circular Saw, make sure the cord is not in the way of the cutting path

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Wear a dust mask if cutting dusty materials

Some materials disperse more particles than others when making cuts. Have a dust mask handy if you are cutting these types of materials.

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Keep an eye on the blade guard

Make sure that the blade guard is not prone to sticking or jamming. The guard needs to move easily and freely. If the guard gets sticky, disconnect the power source and quickly move the blade guard lever back and forth. Check the operation of the lower guard spring.

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If you veer off your mark, do not try to correct it by turning the saw

A circular saw is meant to cut in a straight line, and trying to turn it as you cut will likely pinch the blade and cause kickback. If you go off-course, stop making your cut and start over at the point where the saw ran off your cut line. Using a guide can help prevent you from veering off your cut line.

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Make sure your work piece is well supported while you're cutting

This is especially important with large, flat pieces of material that may bow. If your piece bows during cutting, it's likely to pinch the blade and cause kickback.

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Don't clamp the wood on both sides of the cut

Don’t clamp down the waste side of the wood. The waste side needs to be free to fall, or else your blade might get pinched in the wood and cause kickback.

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The saw blade should always be on the waste side of the material

Always place the saw on the work piece that is supported, not the waste piece. This creates better stability when the waste side falls off.

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Always adjust your blade depth before cutting

The teeth of your blade need to be adjusted so that they are only about 1/4 in. below the bottom of your work piece. This is an important step to avoid kickback.

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Keep a speed square on hand

For quick marking of your cutting piece, it's good to have a speed square on hand. This tool helps you quickly measure a straight, perpendicular or 45 degree angled mark for cutting.

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Use another piece of wood as a guide for cutting

Improve your accuracy by clamping a straight piece of wood to your cutting surface. Place the guide wood where it can act as a fence for the base of the circular saw. Make your cut keeping the base against the guide wood; your cut should come out perfect.

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Cut with the finished side down

If you are cutting a piece of material with a finished side, make sure that side is facing down to avoid scratching the finish.

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Make sure you're using the right blade for the materials you plan to cut

The fewer the teeth your blade has, the rougher the cut. If you're working with a piece that has a delicate face, or you want the smoothest cut possible, go with a higher toothed blade.

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Carbide-tipped blades may be a good investment if you plan to use your saw frequently

Carbide-tipped blades tend to stay sharper longer. If you are planning to use your saw frequently, this may be a good investment.

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Use Painters Tape to mark your work piece

Place a strip of painters tape where you want to make your cut line. This will allow you to mark your cut line without actually marking the material and will help alleviate splintering.

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Make sure the saw is not touching the cutting material when you start it

Allow your saw to get up to speed before touching the blade to the material.

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Use an edge guide to make straight-edge cuts

This is a simple accessory that fits in the base of the saw and braces against the edge of the cutting piece. It helps you cut a nice, straight edge.

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To Change the Blade

Disconnect the power cord or remove the battery from the tool. Press the spindle lock button and use the blade wrench to remove the blade screw, outer washer and blade. Place new blade into the saw and attach the washers. Clean as needed and place a drop of oil on the inner and outer blade washers where they touch the blade.

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Make use of factory edges

When you're working with a store-bought piece of wood or material, make good use of the factory edges. They're already square and level.

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Have clamps on hand

Have a supply of different sizes of clamps during yourproject. The help to stabilize your work piece, and to clamp a piece of guide wood to your work surface.

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Clean your saw after use

Using an aerosol blower or rag, remove dust and debris from your saw after use. You extend the life of your tool by keeping it clean.

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Making Plunge and Pocket Cuts

Adjust the bevel setting to zero. Using the guard lever, lift the blade guard and start the saw. Rest the front of the base flat against the workpiece with the rear of the handle raised so the blade does not touch the workpiece. Once the saw is up to full speed, make your cut.

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Preparing to Drill

Make sure your battery or power source is disconnected. Select the size drill bit you want based on the size of the hole you need and insert the drill bit in the jaws. Tighten the chuck by hand. Select the drilling application on your clutch adjustment ring to the drill setting. Make sure your drill is set to the forward position and adjust the gear switch to position 2 for high speed. Attach power source and you're ready to drill.

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Drilling

Make sure you're holding the drill level to your material. Start the drill and increase speed gradually. As the bit works into the material, increase the speed. Release the trigger once the hole is complete.

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Before You Begin Driving

Make sure your battery or power source is disconnected. Select the low speed setting on your gear switch, and adjust the torque to a high level. Reconnect the power source and begin driving.

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Precision Driving

Beginning with the clutch setting on low, start driving the fastener, and adjust the clutch as needed. If the screw will not sink into the material completely, increase the clutch a little at a time until you're happy with the position of the screw. If you're new to drilling, it may take some time for you to get familiar with the settings. When driving, it's better to start with a low clutch setting and work your way up. If you start with a setting that's too high for the job, you may drive your screw too far into the material.

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Use the variable speed to give yourself more control

If your drill has a variable speed trigger, start the drill slowly and gradually increase your speed. This will give you more control over your driving and drilling projects.

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Keep extra batteries on hand

It's a good idea to have an extra charged battery on hand if you plan to take on a large-scale project.

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Make a depth marker with tape on your drill bit

Measure the bit as far as you want to drill a hole into your material and mark the bit with tape. This helps you make sure you're drilling to the same depth every time.

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Make sure your bit is securely tightened

A loose bit can damage your work surface. Make sure you tighten the chuck firmly before you start working.

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Practice

Find a piece of scrap wood and take the time to get familiar with your Drill/Driver. Practice driving fasteners with and without a starter hole and holding the drill level on several different types of materials.

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Change directions with the direction switch

Switch easily between forward and reverse modes with the direction switch above the trigger.

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Use a low clutch setting on drywall and other soft materials

Using a low torque setting for softer materials helps protect the material from damage by the fastener.

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Use a higher torque setting on dense, harder materials

Starting with a low clutch setting, work your way up to a higher setting until you have driven your screw to the depth you want. Leave the clutch set at this setting for subsequent screws, and you'll drive all the screws to the same depth.

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Apply a small amount of pressure during drilling and driving to help the drill bit or fastener get a better grip on the material

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If drilling a large hole, you may need to adjust the gear setting to position 1 (highest torque)

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Fitting a bit tip to the screw head

A bit should fit snugly into a screw head. Try the different sized tips to find the best fitting bit.

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Keep a supply of different kinds of fasteners on hand

Long screws, short screws, screws for metal, screws for wood, bolts and nuts. Keep a supply that will fit your most common needs.

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Outdoor work needs a special kind of fastener

They need to be galvanized or rust-proof.

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Get a set of driving bits

There is a large variety of fasteners available in the market. It's a smart investment to buy a set of driving bits so you never have to worry about coming across a fastener you cannot use. With out the correct bit, your fastener is obsolete.

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Get a set of drill bits

You will need to have a variety of different sized drill bits for different applications.

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Pilot Holes prevent wood from splitting

Not only does a pilot holes prevent your wood from splitting but it also helps keep the screw on a straight path. For large and long screws, pilot holes make it much easier to drive into the work piece. If you're driving a screw within two inches of the board's edge it is more likely that wood will split, drilling a pilot hole will help keep the wood from splitting.

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A pilot hole needs to be smaller than your screw

Drilling a pilot hole too large for your screw will make the screw unable to grip the material. Charts are available as reference guides. A quick way to pick the right size drill bit, is to compare the drill bit with the screw's shaft. The spiraling ridges of the screw stick out from the center of the shaft. Find a drill bit that is close to the same size as the center of the screw, and smaller than the spiraling ridges.

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You can use an awl or nail as an alternative to a pilot hole

For shorter screws, a pilot hole may not be needed. You can help get the screw started without a pilot hole by using an awl or nail to make a small indention in the wood. Place your fastener into the indention and begin to drive your fastener.

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Use countersinks for cleaner finish

Countersinks create pockets for the screw head to fit into. You can create a countersink with a counterbore, which is a pocket with a hole that matches the size of your screw head. This makes it easy to cover the screw with a plug or putty. It's great for hiding screws heads in furniture or any other projects where you don’t want the screw to show.

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Avoid stripping your screws

To keep your screws from stripping, make sure you're using the correct driving bit to match your screw head and be careful not to use more torque than needed.

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For building furniture, consider purchasing a pocket hole jig

This accessory allows you to make perfect pocket holes, which you will use a lot if you're making furniture.

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Drive screws straight

Driving a screw crooked will lessen its holding power, and make it difficult to drive in all the way.

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Don’t use slotted screws with your drill/driver

It's very hard to keep the bit centered on a slotted screw head. Most DIY-ers prefer Torx or Phillips head screws.

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Selecting the right size screw for your job

Measure the pieces you're joining and pick a screw that will go all the way through the top piece and about 1/2 way through the bottom piece. In other words, drive a fastener 3/4 of the total thickness of the two pieces.

Accessory Bit

There are bits for drilling holes and bits for driving fasteners.

Instructions: Loosen the chuck by hand, insert the drill bit's shank and tighten firmly.

Auger Bit

A bit used to "bore" or create deep holes in wood.

Awl hand tool

An Awl hand tool is a tool with a long metal spike used to mark or to drill holes in different materials.

Base

The flat portion of the saw that sits flat on the work piece.

Instructions: Always make sure the base is resting completely flat while you're cutting. Rocking the base could result in kickback or a misaligned cut.

Bevel Cut

A cut made at an angle towards the inside of the work piece.

Instructions: Secure your work piece and mark your cut. Adjust the bevel to the angle you want. Align the line of cut with the 45° blade guide notch on the base when making 45° bevel cuts. Install the battery or plug the saw in and make your cut on the waste side of your cut mark. It is best to make test cuts no scrap material before cutting your workpiece.

Bit

The piece of metal that goes into the drill's tip. There are bits for drilling holes and bits for driving screws.

Black oxide bits

High Speed Steel Drill Bits with a Black Oxide finish which is created by a combination of chemicals and heat during the manufacturing process. Because of this finish, they have a higher resistance of rust and stay sharper longer; for use in general purpose drilling

Brad-point bit

A bit with 3 small points at the tip. Prevents the bit from "walking" when you start drilling. For precise drilling and for wood only.

Bubble Level

The water tube on the top and back of the drill that shows you when you are level with your drilling surface.

Chuck

The cylinder that opens and closes the jaw of the drill.

Chuck Jaws

The portion at the very tip of the drill that holds the bit in place.

Chuck Key

An additional tool required to loosen and tighten the chuck.

Clutch

The ring around the front of the drill (usually right behind the chuck) that lets you adjust the torque setting.

Clutch out

When the material you're driving into is too dense or tough for the clutch setting, the drill will stop moving the fastener. This is designed to protect your surface from damage. Adjust the clutch to a higher setting to complete the drive.

Countersink

A bit that creates a pocket for the screw or fastener to fit in and be flush with the top of the material. The size of the pocket should match the size of the screw head. High Speed Steel countersinks can also be used to clean the edges of holes in metal and plastic.

Cross Cut

A cut made across the grain of the wood or material.

Instructions: Install your battery, or plug in the saw. Secure your work piece and mark your cut. Adjust the blade depth so that the teeth fall just below the work piece (no more than 1/4"). Install your battery, or plug the saw in. Remember to bring the blade just on the waste side of the cut, and make sure the motor side of the saw is over the supported part of workpiece. Make your cut, and be sure the blade comes to a complete stop before lifting the saw back up on any cut.

Cut line indicator

The notches on the front of the base that show you where your blade will go. Some are more accurate than others. Get familiar with your saw and make any necessary marks/adjustments to help you know exactly where your blade will go.

Drill Bits

Used for drilling holes in various materials.

Driving/Screwdriving Bits

Forged or milled metal piece with a tip and a shank used for driving in all types of fasteners

Edge Guide

An accessory that fits through the nose of the saw. It helps make straight cuts.

Instructions: Slide the edge guide through the holes in the front of your saw, and adjust it so that the vertical flat piece rests against the edge of your cutting piece. You can adjust the fence for wide or narrow cuts as necessary.

Factory Edge

When using store-bought wood or materials, the un-cut edges of the material are called factory edges. They are usually already square.

Instructions: Try to make use of factory edges in your projects. Take advantage of the fact that you have two sides that will already be perfectly straight and square.

Fasteners

Hardware that keeps two or more pieces of material together

Flush screw

A screw whose head is exactly level with the material it is fixed to. Might be used for molding or furniture

Fortsner Bit

A wood drilling bit that makes a clean flat bottom hole. These bits shoould only be used on a drill press because of high torque they produce.

Front

The front part of the base.

Instructions: The front will help guide you when you're making plunge or pocket cuts.

Gear Switch

The switch on top that lets you choose between highest speed, and highest torque.

High Speed Drill Bits

General purpose bits used for drilling in wood, plastic, and metal. High Speed refers to the metal used to manufacture these kind of bits.

Hole Saw

A pilot drill bit attached to a cylindrical cutter. Used for making large holes, ussually in 2 by material; Can be used for installing lighting under cabinets

Impact rated bits

Driving bits manufactured with a special material or profile that withstand the high torque of an impact driver; for use with impact drivers

Jig

A re-usuable guide built for your circular saw

Instructions: Some users prefer to create a jig for their circular saws rather than use guide wood they have laying around. There are lots of instructional videos on YouTube that can help you make your own.

Keep Side

The side of the wood you are planning to use.

Kerf

The thickness of the blade

Keyless chuck

The kind of chuck that you can loosen and tighten by hand.

Kickback

When the saw is forced back suddenly to the user. This can be caused when the blade gets pinched in the wood due to insufficient support, when the blade encounters something inside the wood, the saw blade is misaligned or when the blade depth is set too deep.

Instructions: Kickback can be controlled more easily by taking the following steps: 1: Make sure your work piece is securely clamped. No wiggle. 2: Keep a firm, 2-handed grip on the saw during cutting. 3: Keep a stable, firm stance during cutting. Never put yourself in a postion that makes it easy to lose your balance.

Lag screws

A Lag Screw is a heavy-duty wood screw used for structural support . Might be used for building a deck or trellis.

Lithium-Ion Battery

The most efficient kind of battery for a cordless drill. They typically charge faster, run longer, and don't slowly fade in power.

Masonry Bits

Drill bits with a carbide tip used to drill holes in brick, mortar, block and concrete.

Ni-Cad (Nickel Cadmium) Battery

The "old school" kind of battery. They tend to take longer to charge, and they gradually lose power as they run down.

Nut driver

A hex design bit used for driving in nuts, bolts and other hex head fasteners.

Pilot hole

Pilot holes are used primarily to prevent the wood from splitting. They can also be used to keep the screws on track and make it easier to drive.

Plug

A piece of wood used to cover a hole usually made by a fastener driven below the surface of the workpiece material. Might be used for decorative pieces

Plunge Cut

A cut that is made inside a workpiece, with no edge to start from. Also known as a pocket cut. May be used for cutting out a hole for a floor vent.

Instructions: Adjust the bevel setting to zero. Using the guard lever, lift the blade guard and start the saw. Rest the front of the base flat against the workpiece with the rear of the handle raised so the blade does not touch the workpiece. Once the saw is up to full speed, slowly lower the blade into the work piece. Release the guard lever once the saw is in the material.

Pocket Cut

See plunge cut.

Pocket Hole

A hole is made for driving screws at an angle. Commonly used for furniture

Pocket hole jig

An accessory that helps you drill pocket holes.

Screw gauge

A chart with holes that can be used to determine the size of the screw to be used and the pilot hole needed.

Self-tapping screws

A fastener that makes its own hole as it's driven used for driving into sheet metal.

Shank

The section of the bit that goes into the drill's chuck. The most typical shanks are round, 3-flat, reduced and hex shaped.

Sidewinder Circular Saw

A circular saw with the motor on the side.

Sink

To drive a fastener into material.

Spade bit / Paddle bit

A drilling bit with a flat, spade shaped head. Used for making larger holes.

Straight Edge Guide

A piece of wood that is used to make straight cuts.

Instructions: Find a piece of wood that is at least as long as the cut you want to make. (The guide wood must be straight). Clamp the wood to your work piece, and as you make your cut, keep your saw base flush against the guide. This will help you make a nice straight cut.

Stripped/ Stripping Screws

A stripped screw has a head in which the tip design has been deformed by a spinning driver bit. They can be very hard to get out.

Sub flush screw

A screw whose head is below the surface of the material it is fixed to.

Tapered head wood-screws

A common type of fastener used for wood work.

Tear out

Tear out occurs when the blade doesn't cut cleanly through the wood. During tear out, the blade makes a rough, splintery exit.

Instructions: Steps to reduce tear out: 1: Make sure the pretty side of the wood is facing down. 2: Make sure the blade you're using is in good condition. 3: Make sure your blade is set for the proper depth for your work piece (never more than 1/4" below) 4: use painter's tape on the top side of the workpiece.

Tile Bits / Glass Cutting Bits

Drill bits with a triangular carbide tip or tips used to drill holes in glass and tile.

Titanium coated drill bits

High Speed Steel Drill Bits with a Titanium Nitride coating which helps the drill bit stay cooler when in use, especially when drilling metal. This helps the drill bit stay sharper longer. For general purpose drilling

Torque

A drill's word for power. High torque means the drill/driver is turning the bit very hard.

Waste Side

The part of the wood you're cutting off.

Wormdrive Circular Saw

A Circular Saw with motor in the rear

Note: Some users may prefer a wormdrive, as the center of control is in the back instead of the side. They are are generally 1.5 to 2 times heavier than a sidewinder saw.

Manuals

18 Volt String Trimmer/Edger - p2006a
18 Volt String Trimmer/Edger - p2006a
18 V Blower - p2102
18 V Blower - p2102
18 V Hedge Trimmer - p2603
18 V Hedge Trimmer - p2603
18 Volt Lithium-Ion Battery Pack - p102
18 Volt Battery Charger - p118b

TROUBLESHOOTING & FAQs

How do I manually advance the line on my RYOBI Cordless String Trimmer?

Remove the battery.
Push the black button located on the string head while pulling on the line to manually advance the line.

How do I replace the line on my RYOBI Cordless String Trimmer?

Remove the battery pack.
Remove the spool from the string head.
NOTE: Remove any old line remaining on the spool.
Cut a piece of line approximately 9 ft. long. Use only .065 in. round or .080 in. twisted monofilament line.
Insert the line into the anchor hole in the upper part of the spool. Wind the line around the supper part of the spool clockwise, as shown by the arrows on the spool. Place line in the slot on upper spool flange, leaving about 6 in. extended beyond the slot. Do not overfill. After winding the line, there should be at least ¼ in. between the wound line and the outside edge of the spool.
Replace the plastic retainer spool and the spool cap.

What do I do if my RYOBI Cordless String Trimmer won’t start?

Possible Cause—Battery is not secure

To secure the battery pack, make sure the e battery pack is snapped into place.

Possible Cause—Battery is not charged:

Charge the battery pack according to the instructions included with your battery.

18V ONE+™ String Trimmer/Edger, Hedge Trimmer & Sweeper with (2) 1.3Ah Batteries & Charger

Tips & Techniques

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