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8 PC. COMBO KIT

8 PC. COMBO KIT

P1894

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Tips & Techniques

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Tips & Safety
Glossary

Accessory Bit

There are bits for drilling holes and bits for driving fasteners.

Instructions: Loosen the chuck by hand, insert the drill bit's shank and tighten firmly.

Adjustable shoe

A feature that allows the user to move the shoe forward or back, exposing more or less of the saw blade.

Instructions: Adjust the shoe forward or backward depending on how much blade length you want to use. Remember- shorter blade length is easier to control, while longer blade lengths can go deeper into materials.

Auger Bit

A bit used to "bore" or create deep holes in wood.

Awl hand tool

An Awl hand tool is a tool with a long metal spike used to mark or to drill holes in different materials.

Base

The flat portion of the saw that sits flat on the work piece.

Instructions: Always make sure the base is resting completely flat while you're cutting. Rocking the base could result in kickback or a misaligned cut.

Bevel Cut

A cut made at an angle towards the inside of the work piece.

Instructions: Secure your work piece and mark your cut. Adjust the bevel to the angle you want. Align the line of cut with the 45° blade guide notch on the base when making 45° bevel cuts. Install the battery or plug the saw in and make your cut on the waste side of your cut mark. It is best to make test cuts no scrap material before cutting your workpiece.

Bi-metal

Bi-Metal blades are manufactured with two types of metal. This provides a much stronger, longer lasting blade.

Bit

The piece of metal that goes into the drill's tip. There are bits for drilling holes and bits for driving screws.

Black oxide bits

High Speed Steel Drill Bits with a Black Oxide finish which is created by a combination of chemicals and heat during the manufacturing process. Because of this finish, they have a higher resistance of rust and stay sharper longer; for use in general purpose drilling

Blade Clamp

This is the part of the saw that holds the blade in place. Most blade clamps are tool-less and spring loaded.

Instructions: Unplug or remove the battery pack from the saw, then pull back (or lift up) the blade clamp. Insert the blade, and release the blade clamp. Make sure the blade is secure. You should never operate a saw with a loose blade.

Brad-point bit

A bit with 3 small points at the tip. Prevents the bit from "walking" when you start drilling. For precise drilling and for wood only.

Bubble Level

The water tube on the top and back of the drill that shows you when you are level with your drilling surface.

Chuck

The cylinder that opens and closes the jaw of the drill.

Chuck Jaws

The portion at the very tip of the drill that holds the bit in place.

Chuck Key

An additional tool required to loosen and tighten the chuck.

Clutch

The ring around the front of the drill (usually right behind the chuck) that lets you adjust the torque setting.

Clutch out

When the material you're driving into is too dense or tough for the clutch setting, the drill will stop moving the fastener. This is designed to protect your surface from damage. Adjust the clutch to a higher setting to complete the drive.

Countersink

A bit that creates a pocket for the screw or fastener to fit in and be flush with the top of the material. The size of the pocket should match the size of the screw head. High Speed Steel countersinks can also be used to clean the edges of holes in metal and plastic.

Cross Cut

A cut made across the grain of the wood or material.

Instructions: Install your battery, or plug in the saw. Secure your work piece and mark your cut. Adjust the blade depth so that the teeth fall just below the work piece (no more than 1/4"). Install your battery, or plug the saw in. Remember to bring the blade just on the waste side of the cut, and make sure the motor side of the saw is over the supported part of workpiece. Make your cut, and be sure the blade comes to a complete stop before lifting the saw back up on any cut.

Cut line indicator

The notches on the front of the base that show you where your blade will go. Some are more accurate than others. Get familiar with your saw and make any necessary marks/adjustments to help you know exactly where your blade will go.

Drill Bits

Used for drilling holes in various materials.

Driving/Screwdriving Bits

Forged or milled metal piece with a tip and a shank used for driving in all types of fasteners

Edge Guide

An accessory that fits through the nose of the saw. It helps make straight cuts.

Instructions: Slide the edge guide through the holes in the front of your saw, and adjust it so that the vertical flat piece rests against the edge of your cutting piece. You can adjust the fence for wide or narrow cuts as necessary.

Factory Edge

When using store-bought wood or materials, the un-cut edges of the material are called factory edges. They are usually already square.

Instructions: Try to make use of factory edges in your projects. Take advantage of the fact that you have two sides that will already be perfectly straight and square.

Fasteners

Hardware that keeps two or more pieces of material together

Flush Cut

Cutting a nail or screw to lay flush against a surface. May be used for tidying up rough or sloppy work

Instructions: Using a long-length flexible blade, bend the blade until it curves with part lying flat on the surface. Pull the trigger, and the bent blade will cut the nail/screw flush against the material.

Flush screw

A screw whose head is exactly level with the material it is fixed to. Might be used for molding or furniture

Fortsner Bit

A wood drilling bit that makes a clean flat bottom hole. These bits shoould only be used on a drill press because of high torque they produce.

Front

The front part of the base.

Instructions: The front will help guide you when you're making plunge or pocket cuts.

Gear Switch

The switch on top that lets you choose between highest speed, and highest torque.

High Speed Drill Bits

General purpose bits used for drilling in wood, plastic, and metal. High Speed refers to the metal used to manufacture these kind of bits.

Hole Saw

A pilot drill bit attached to a cylindrical cutter. Used for making large holes, ussually in 2 by material; Can be used for installing lighting under cabinets

Impact rated bits

Driving bits manufactured with a special material or profile that withstand the high torque of an impact driver; for use with impact drivers

Jig

A re-usuable guide built for your circular saw

Instructions: Some users prefer to create a jig for their circular saws rather than use guide wood they have laying around. There are lots of instructional videos on YouTube that can help you make your own.

Keep Side

The side of the wood you are planning to use.

Kerf

The thickness of the blade

Keyless chuck

The kind of chuck that you can loosen and tighten by hand.

Kickback

When the saw is forced back suddenly to the user. This can be caused when the blade gets pinched in the wood due to insufficient support, when the blade encounters something inside the wood, the saw blade is misaligned or when the blade depth is set too deep.

Instructions: Kickback can be controlled more easily by taking the following steps: 1: Make sure your work piece is securely clamped. No wiggle. 2: Keep a firm, 2-handed grip on the saw during cutting. 3: Keep a stable, firm stance during cutting. Never put yourself in a postion that makes it easy to lose your balance.

Kickback (Recip Saws)

The unexpected action of the saw hurling the material being cut or the saw in the direction of the user.

Lag screws

A Lag Screw is a heavy-duty wood screw used for structural support . Might be used for building a deck or trellis.

Lithium-Ion Battery

The most efficient kind of battery for a cordless drill. They typically charge faster, run longer, and don't slowly fade in power.

Masonry Bits

Drill bits with a carbide tip used to drill holes in brick, mortar, block and concrete.

Ni-Cad (Nickel Cadmium) Battery

The "old school" kind of battery. They tend to take longer to charge, and they gradually lose power as they run down.

Nut driver

A hex design bit used for driving in nuts, bolts and other hex head fasteners.

Orbital Action/Oscillation

An additional setting on some Jig Saws and Reciprocating Saws that provide an orbital action for more aggressive cuts.

Instructions: Only use this function on wood- never metal or plastic.

Pilot hole

Pilot holes are used primarily to prevent the wood from splitting. They can also be used to keep the screws on track and make it easier to drive.

Pivoting shoe

A feature that allows you to rock the saw back and forth during cutting without lifting the shoe off the cutting material. This helps you get through tougher cuts.

Plug

A piece of wood used to cover a hole usually made by a fastener driven below the surface of the workpiece material. Might be used for decorative pieces

Plunge Cut

A cut that is made inside a workpiece, with no edge to start from. Also known as a pocket cut. May be used for cutting out a hole for a floor vent.

Instructions: Adjust the bevel setting to zero. Using the guard lever, lift the blade guard and start the saw. Rest the front of the base flat against the workpiece with the rear of the handle raised so the blade does not touch the workpiece. Once the saw is up to full speed, slowly lower the blade into the work piece. Release the guard lever once the saw is in the material.

Plunge Cut

A cut made directly into a piece of material. It starts inside the material, not on the edge. May be used for: Taking down drywall, cutting slots for doors, windows and outlets

Instructions: Without the blade touching the material, rest the shoe of the saw on the material. Pull the trigger and slowly lower the blade into the material until the blade fully enters the material.

Pocket Cut

See plunge cut.

Pocket Cut

Cutting a square or rectangle shape out of the material; may be used for creating a space for electrical outlets.

Pocket Hole

A hole is made for driving screws at an angle. Commonly used for furniture

Pocket hole jig

An accessory that helps you drill pocket holes.

Screw gauge

A chart with holes that can be used to determine the size of the screw to be used and the pilot hole needed.

Self-tapping screws

A fastener that makes its own hole as it's driven used for driving into sheet metal.

Shank

The section of the bit that goes into the drill's chuck. The most typical shanks are round, 3-flat, reduced and hex shaped.

Shoe

This is the part of the saw that rests against the material you are cutting. The shoe should always be flat against the material. It reduces vibration and gives you better control.

Instructions: Rest the shoe against the material before pulling the trigger. The blade should not touch the material until moving at full speed. Once the shoe is in place, you can start the saw.

Sidewinder Circular Saw

A circular saw with the motor on the side.

Sink

To drive a fastener into material.

Spade bit / Paddle bit

A drilling bit with a flat, spade shaped head. Used for making larger holes.

Straight Edge Guide

A piece of wood that is used to make straight cuts.

Instructions: Find a piece of wood that is at least as long as the cut you want to make. (The guide wood must be straight). Clamp the wood to your work piece, and as you make your cut, keep your saw base flush against the guide. This will help you make a nice straight cut.

Stripped/ Stripping Screws

A stripped screw has a head in which the tip design has been deformed by a spinning driver bit. They can be very hard to get out.

Sub flush screw

A screw whose head is below the surface of the material it is fixed to.

Tapered head wood-screws

A common type of fastener used for wood work.

Tear out

Tear out occurs when the blade doesn't cut cleanly through the wood. During tear out, the blade makes a rough, splintery exit.

Instructions: Steps to reduce tear out: 1: Make sure the pretty side of the wood is facing down. 2: Make sure the blade you're using is in good condition. 3: Make sure your blade is set for the proper depth for your work piece (never more than 1/4" below) 4: use painter's tape on the top side of the workpiece.

Tile Bits / Glass Cutting Bits

Drill bits with a triangular carbide tip or tips used to drill holes in glass and tile.

Titanium coated drill bits

High Speed Steel Drill Bits with a Titanium Nitride coating which helps the drill bit stay cooler when in use, especially when drilling metal. This helps the drill bit stay sharper longer. For general purpose drilling

Torque

A drill's word for power. High torque means the drill/driver is turning the bit very hard.

TPI

TPI stands for Teeth Per Inch. This is the way saw blades are measured. The lower the TPI, the more aggressive the cut.

Instructions: If you're cutting wood, choose a 6-10 TPI blade. For metal, choose a higher TPI such as 18.

Variable Speed Trigger/Adjustment

Allows user to control the speed of the blade. This feature gives the user greater cut control.

Instructions: If you're sawing and you hit a particularly hard patch of material, simply adjust the speed of the saw to help you get through it.

Waste Side

The part of the wood you're cutting off.

Wormdrive Circular Saw

A Circular Saw with motor in the rear

Note: Some users may prefer a wormdrive, as the center of control is in the back instead of the side. They are are generally 1.5 to 2 times heavier than a sidewinder saw.

Manuals

  • 18 V Lithium-Ion Battery Pack - p194

REGISTRATION & WARRANTY

Ryobi three year warranty logo

This product is covered by a 3-year limited warranty.

service & repair

Visit our replacmeent part store or our authorized service center locator for assistance with service and repairs.

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