This website and the information contained in it is NOT designed to replace your manual. You need to read your manual and completely understand all requirements before operating your Circular Saw.
The blade guard will not hinder any cuts you plan to make. It is not meant to be removed.
Whether you're changing the blade, or adjusting the angle and depth of the saw, always make sure to disconnect the power source.
Some materials disperse more particles than others when making cuts. Have a dust mask handy if you are cutting these types of materials.
Make sure that the blade guard is not prone to sticking or jamming. The guard needs to move easily and freely. If the guard gets sticky, disconnect the power source and quickly move the blade guard lever back and forth. Check the operation of the lower guard spring.
A circular saw is meant to cut in a straight line, and trying to turn it as you cut will likely pinch the blade and cause kickback. If you go off-course, stop making your cut and start over at the point where the saw ran off your cut line. Using a guide can help prevent you from veering off your cut line.
This is especially important with large, flat pieces of material that may bow. If your piece bows during cutting, it's likely to pinch the blade and cause kickback.
Dont clamp down the waste side of the wood. The waste side needs to be free to fall, or else your blade might get pinched in the wood and cause kickback.
Always place the saw on the work piece that is supported, not the waste piece. This creates better stability when the waste side falls off.
The teeth of your blade need to be adjusted so that they are only about 1/4 in. below the bottom of your work piece. This is an important step to avoid kickback.
For quick marking of your cutting piece, it's good to have a speed square on hand. This tool helps you quickly measure a straight, perpendicular or 45 degree angled mark for cutting.
Improve your accuracy by clamping a straight piece of wood to your cutting surface. Place the guide wood where it can act as a fence for the base of the circular saw. Make your cut keeping the base against the guide wood; your cut should come out perfect.
If you are cutting a piece of material with a finished side, make sure that side is facing down to avoid scratching the finish.
The fewer the teeth your blade has, the rougher the cut. If you're working with a piece that has a delicate face, or you want the smoothest cut possible, go with a higher toothed blade.
Carbide-tipped blades tend to stay sharper longer. If you are planning to use your saw frequently, this may be a good investment.
Place a strip of painters tape where you want to make your cut line. This will allow you to mark your cut line without actually marking the material and will help alleviate splintering.
Allow your saw to get up to speed before touching the blade to the material.
This is a simple accessory that fits in the base of the saw and braces against the edge of the cutting piece. It helps you cut a nice, straight edge.
Disconnect the power cord or remove the battery from the tool. Press the spindle lock button and use the blade wrench to remove the blade screw, outer washer and blade. Place new blade into the saw and attach the washers. Clean as needed and place a drop of oil on the inner and outer blade washers where they touch the blade.
When you're working with a store-bought piece of wood or material, make good use of the factory edges. They're already square and level.
Have a supply of different sizes of clamps during yourproject. The help to stabilize your work piece, and to clamp a piece of guide wood to your work surface.
Using an aerosol blower or rag, remove dust and debris from your saw after use. You extend the life of your tool by keeping it clean.
Adjust the bevel setting to zero. Using the guard lever, lift the blade guard and start the saw. Rest the front of the base flat against the workpiece with the rear of the handle raised so the blade does not touch the workpiece. Once the saw is up to full speed, make your cut.
Make sure your battery or power source is disconnected. Select the size drill bit you want based on the size of the hole you need and insert the drill bit in the jaws. Tighten the chuck by hand. Select the drilling application on your clutch adjustment ring to the drill setting. Make sure your drill is set to the forward position and adjust the gear switch to position 2 for high speed. Attach power source and you're ready to drill.
Make sure you're holding the drill level to your material. Start the drill and increase speed gradually. As the bit works into the material, increase the speed. Release the trigger once the hole is complete.
Make sure your battery or power source is disconnected. Select the low speed setting on your gear switch, and adjust the torque to a high level. Reconnect the power source and begin driving.
Beginning with the clutch setting on low, start driving the fastener, and adjust the clutch as needed. If the screw will not sink into the material completely, increase the clutch a little at a time until you're happy with the position of the screw. If you're new to drilling, it may take some time for you to get familiar with the settings. When driving, it's better to start with a low clutch setting and work your way up. If you start with a setting that's too high for the job, you may drive your screw too far into the material.
If your drill has a variable speed trigger, start the drill slowly and gradually increase your speed. This will give you more control over your driving and drilling projects.
It's a good idea to have an extra charged battery on hand if you plan to take on a large-scale project.
Measure the bit as far as you want to drill a hole into your material and mark the bit with tape. This helps you make sure you're drilling to the same depth every time.
A loose bit can damage your work surface. Make sure you tighten the chuck firmly before you start working.
Find a piece of scrap wood and take the time to get familiar with your Drill/Driver. Practice driving fasteners with and without a starter hole and holding the drill level on several different types of materials.
Switch easily between forward and reverse modes with the direction switch above the trigger.
Using a low torque setting for softer materials helps protect the material from damage by the fastener.
Starting with a low clutch setting, work your way up to a higher setting until you have driven your screw to the depth you want. Leave the clutch set at this setting for subsequent screws, and you'll drive all the screws to the same depth.
If your saw has an adjustable shoe feature, adjust the shoe to use different sections of the blade. This will allow your blade to last much longer!
Insert the blade upside down but always hold saw right side up for a firm grip. This will allow you to accomplish cuts at tricky angles.
Some saws include orbital action. This feature makes a faster, more aggressive cut with a rougher finish. This should only be used when cutting wood.
Use only enough pressure to keep the saw cutting. Let the blade and saw do the work. Keep pressure on the shoe, against the workpiece.
You can saw through nails to break down pallets much easier than using a pry bar or a hammer.
Cut metal more smoothly by rubbing a little bar lubricant on the blade. (Remember never to handle the blade when the power source is connected)
When your blade is dull and having trouble making it through materials with ease, it's time for a new one. Most reciprocating saws have tooless blade clamps. Lift the lever and insert the blade as far as it will go. Release the lever and tug the blade to make sure it's secure.
If you have chosen the correct length blade, a small amount of the blade should extend past the other side of the material. You should always have a long enough blade to comfortably cut through your material with out the tip of the blade catching. Longer blades are for cutting larger material or for use of their flexibility.
Plunge cuts may be less intimidating if you drill a good sized hole into the material at the point where you want to start your cut. This gives the saw a place to start.
Reciprocating saws are great for trimming/pruning small trees and branches. Make sure you stick to the safety rules; wear eye protection, have solid footing, etc Be reasonable about the size of the branch you decide to cut.
Reciprocating saws can bounce and shake. Be ready to control the saw with a firm grip at all times. Due to the back and forth reciprocating motion, firmly controlling the saw at all times is key!
Rest the bottom of the shoe on the material with the blade resting on the materials surface. Start the blade. Once it's reaches full speed, slowly tilt the blade into the surface of the material. When the blade catches the material, continue tilting until the blade fully plunges through the material and the shoe is completely resting on the surface. Make your cut. Once finished release the trigger and wait for the blade to completely stop before removing from the material.
This website and the information contained in it is NOT designed to replace your manual. You need to read your manual and completely understand all requirements before operating your Recip Saw.
Recip blades heat up during cutting. Give the blade time to cool before touching.
A bit should fit snugly into a screw head. Try the different sized tips to find the best fitting bit.
Long screws, short screws, screws for metal, screws for wood, bolts and nuts. Keep a supply that will fit your most common needs.
They need to be galvanized or rust-proof.
There is a large variety of fasteners available in the market. It's a smart investment to buy a set of driving bits so you never have to worry about coming across a fastener you cannot use. With out the correct bit, your fastener is obsolete.
You will need to have a variety of different sized drill bits for different applications.
Not only does a pilot holes prevent your wood from splitting but it also helps keep the screw on a straight path. For large and long screws, pilot holes make it much easier to drive into the work piece. If you're driving a screw within two inches of the board's edge it is more likely that wood will split, drilling a pilot hole will help keep the wood from splitting.
Drilling a pilot hole too large for your screw will make the screw unable to grip the material. Charts are available as reference guides. A quick way to pick the right size drill bit, is to compare the drill bit with the screw's shaft. The spiraling ridges of the screw stick out from the center of the shaft. Find a drill bit that is close to the same size as the center of the screw, and smaller than the spiraling ridges.
For shorter screws, a pilot hole may not be needed. You can help get the screw started without a pilot hole by using an awl or nail to make a small indention in the wood. Place your fastener into the indention and begin to drive your fastener.
Countersinks create pockets for the screw head to fit into. You can create a countersink with a counterbore, which is a pocket with a hole that matches the size of your screw head. This makes it easy to cover the screw with a plug or putty. It's great for hiding screws heads in furniture or any other projects where you dont want the screw to show.
To keep your screws from stripping, make sure you're using the correct driving bit to match your screw head and be careful not to use more torque than needed.
This accessory allows you to make perfect pocket holes, which you will use a lot if you're making furniture.
Driving a screw crooked will lessen its holding power, and make it difficult to drive in all the way.
It's very hard to keep the bit centered on a slotted screw head. Most DIY-ers prefer Torx or Phillips head screws.
Measure the pieces you're joining and pick a screw that will go all the way through the top piece and about 1/2 way through the bottom piece. In other words, drive a fastener 3/4 of the total thickness of the two pieces.
There are bits for drilling holes and bits for driving fasteners.
Instructions: Loosen the chuck by hand, insert the drill bit's shank and tighten firmly.
A feature that allows the user to move the shoe forward or back, exposing more or less of the saw blade.
Instructions: Adjust the shoe forward or backward depending on how much blade length you want to use. Remember- shorter blade length is easier to control, while longer blade lengths can go deeper into materials.
A bit used to "bore" or create deep holes in wood.
Awl hand tool
An Awl hand tool is a tool with a long metal spike used to mark or to drill holes in different materials.
The flat portion of the saw that sits flat on the work piece.
Instructions: Always make sure the base is resting completely flat while you're cutting. Rocking the base could result in kickback or a misaligned cut.
A cut made at an angle towards the inside of the work piece.
Instructions: Secure your work piece and mark your cut. Adjust the bevel to the angle you want. Align the line of cut with the 45° blade guide notch on the base when making 45° bevel cuts. Install the battery or plug the saw in and make your cut on the waste side of your cut mark. It is best to make test cuts no scrap material before cutting your workpiece.
Bi-Metal blades are manufactured with two types of metal. This provides a much stronger, longer lasting blade.
The piece of metal that goes into the drill's tip. There are bits for drilling holes and bits for driving screws.
Black oxide bits
High Speed Steel Drill Bits with a Black Oxide finish which is created by a combination of chemicals and heat during the manufacturing process. Because of this finish, they have a higher resistance of rust and stay sharper longer; for use in general purpose drilling
This is the part of the saw that holds the blade in place. Most blade clamps are tool-less and spring loaded.
Instructions: Unplug or remove the battery pack from the saw, then pull back (or lift up) the blade clamp. Insert the blade, and release the blade clamp. Make sure the blade is secure. You should never operate a saw with a loose blade.
A bit with 3 small points at the tip. Prevents the bit from "walking" when you start drilling. For precise drilling and for wood only.
The water tube on the top and back of the drill that shows you when you are level with your drilling surface.
The cylinder that opens and closes the jaw of the drill.
The portion at the very tip of the drill that holds the bit in place.
An additional tool required to loosen and tighten the chuck.
The ring around the front of the drill (usually right behind the chuck) that lets you adjust the torque setting.
When the material you're driving into is too dense or tough for the clutch setting, the drill will stop moving the fastener. This is designed to protect your surface from damage. Adjust the clutch to a higher setting to complete the drive.
A bit that creates a pocket for the screw or fastener to fit in and be flush with the top of the material. The size of the pocket should match the size of the screw head. High Speed Steel countersinks can also be used to clean the edges of holes in metal and plastic.
A cut made across the grain of the wood or material.
Instructions: Install your battery, or plug in the saw. Secure your work piece and mark your cut. Adjust the blade depth so that the teeth fall just below the work piece (no more than 1/4"). Install your battery, or plug the saw in. Remember to bring the blade just on the waste side of the cut, and make sure the motor side of the saw is over the supported part of workpiece. Make your cut, and be sure the blade comes to a complete stop before lifting the saw back up on any cut.
Cut line indicator
The notches on the front of the base that show you where your blade will go. Some are more accurate than others. Get familiar with your saw and make any necessary marks/adjustments to help you know exactly where your blade will go.
Used for drilling holes in various materials.
Forged or milled metal piece with a tip and a shank used for driving in all types of fasteners
An accessory that fits through the nose of the saw. It helps make straight cuts.
Instructions: Slide the edge guide through the holes in the front of your saw, and adjust it so that the vertical flat piece rests against the edge of your cutting piece. You can adjust the fence for wide or narrow cuts as necessary.
When using store-bought wood or materials, the un-cut edges of the material are called factory edges. They are usually already square.
Instructions: Try to make use of factory edges in your projects. Take advantage of the fact that you have two sides that will already be perfectly straight and square.
Hardware that keeps two or more pieces of material together
Cutting a nail or screw to lay flush against a surface. May be used for tidying up rough or sloppy work
Instructions: Using a long-length flexible blade, bend the blade until it curves with part lying flat on the surface. Pull the trigger, and the bent blade will cut the nail/screw flush against the material.
A screw whose head is exactly level with the material it is fixed to. Might be used for molding or furniture
A wood drilling bit that makes a clean flat bottom hole. These bits shoould only be used on a drill press because of high torque they produce.
The front part of the base.
Instructions: The front will help guide you when you're making plunge or pocket cuts.
The switch on top that lets you choose between highest speed, and highest torque.
High Speed Drill Bits
General purpose bits used for drilling in wood, plastic, and metal. High Speed refers to the metal used to manufacture these kind of bits.
A pilot drill bit attached to a cylindrical cutter. Used for making large holes, ussually in 2 by material; Can be used for installing lighting under cabinets
Impact rated bits
Driving bits manufactured with a special material or profile that withstand the high torque of an impact driver; for use with impact drivers
A re-usuable guide built for your circular saw
Instructions: Some users prefer to create a jig for their circular saws rather than use guide wood they have laying around. There are lots of instructional videos on YouTube that can help you make your own.
The side of the wood you are planning to use.
The thickness of the blade
The kind of chuck that you can loosen and tighten by hand.
When the saw is forced back suddenly to the user. This can be caused when the blade gets pinched in the wood due to insufficient support, when the blade encounters something inside the wood, the saw blade is misaligned or when the blade depth is set too deep.
Instructions: Kickback can be controlled more easily by taking the following steps: 1: Make sure your work piece is securely clamped. No wiggle. 2: Keep a firm, 2-handed grip on the saw during cutting. 3: Keep a stable, firm stance during cutting. Never put yourself in a postion that makes it easy to lose your balance.
Kickback (Recip Saws)
The unexpected action of the saw hurling the material being cut or the saw in the direction of the user.
A Lag Screw is a heavy-duty wood screw used for structural support . Might be used for building a deck or trellis.
The most efficient kind of battery for a cordless drill. They typically charge faster, run longer, and don't slowly fade in power.
Drill bits with a carbide tip used to drill holes in brick, mortar, block and concrete.
Ni-Cad (Nickel Cadmium) Battery
The "old school" kind of battery. They tend to take longer to charge, and they gradually lose power as they run down.
A hex design bit used for driving in nuts, bolts and other hex head fasteners.
An additional setting on some Jig Saws and Reciprocating Saws that provide an orbital action for more aggressive cuts.
Instructions: Only use this function on wood- never metal or plastic.
Pilot holes are used primarily to prevent the wood from splitting. They can also be used to keep the screws on track and make it easier to drive.
A feature that allows you to rock the saw back and forth during cutting without lifting the shoe off the cutting material. This helps you get through tougher cuts.
A piece of wood used to cover a hole usually made by a fastener driven below the surface of the workpiece material. Might be used for decorative pieces
A cut that is made inside a workpiece, with no edge to start from. Also known as a pocket cut. May be used for cutting out a hole for a floor vent.
Instructions: Adjust the bevel setting to zero. Using the guard lever, lift the blade guard and start the saw. Rest the front of the base flat against the workpiece with the rear of the handle raised so the blade does not touch the workpiece. Once the saw is up to full speed, slowly lower the blade into the work piece. Release the guard lever once the saw is in the material.
A cut made directly into a piece of material. It starts inside the material, not on the edge. May be used for: Taking down drywall, cutting slots for doors, windows and outlets
Instructions: Without the blade touching the material, rest the shoe of the saw on the material. Pull the trigger and slowly lower the blade into the material until the blade fully enters the material.
See plunge cut.
Cutting a square or rectangle shape out of the material; may be used for creating a space for electrical outlets.
A hole is made for driving screws at an angle. Commonly used for furniture
Pocket hole jig
An accessory that helps you drill pocket holes.
A chart with holes that can be used to determine the size of the screw to be used and the pilot hole needed.
A fastener that makes its own hole as it's driven used for driving into sheet metal.
The section of the bit that goes into the drill's chuck. The most typical shanks are round, 3-flat, reduced and hex shaped.
This is the part of the saw that rests against the material you are cutting. The shoe should always be flat against the material. It reduces vibration and gives you better control.
Instructions: Rest the shoe against the material before pulling the trigger. The blade should not touch the material until moving at full speed. Once the shoe is in place, you can start the saw.
Sidewinder Circular Saw
A circular saw with the motor on the side.
To drive a fastener into material.
Spade bit / Paddle bit
A drilling bit with a flat, spade shaped head. Used for making larger holes.
Straight Edge Guide
A piece of wood that is used to make straight cuts.
Instructions: Find a piece of wood that is at least as long as the cut you want to make. (The guide wood must be straight). Clamp the wood to your work piece, and as you make your cut, keep your saw base flush against the guide. This will help you make a nice straight cut.
Stripped/ Stripping Screws
A stripped screw has a head in which the tip design has been deformed by a spinning driver bit. They can be very hard to get out.
Sub flush screw
A screw whose head is below the surface of the material it is fixed to.
TPI stands for Teeth Per Inch. This is the way saw blades are measured. The lower the TPI, the more aggressive the cut.
Instructions: If you're cutting wood, choose a 6-10 TPI blade. For metal, choose a higher TPI such as 18.
Tapered head wood-screws
A common type of fastener used for wood work.
Tear out occurs when the blade doesn't cut cleanly through the wood. During tear out, the blade makes a rough, splintery exit.
Instructions: Steps to reduce tear out: 1: Make sure the pretty side of the wood is facing down. 2: Make sure the blade you're using is in good condition. 3: Make sure your blade is set for the proper depth for your work piece (never more than 1/4" below) 4: use painter's tape on the top side of the workpiece.
Tile Bits / Glass Cutting Bits
Drill bits with a triangular carbide tip or tips used to drill holes in glass and tile.
Titanium coated drill bits
High Speed Steel Drill Bits with a Titanium Nitride coating which helps the drill bit stay cooler when in use, especially when drilling metal. This helps the drill bit stay sharper longer. For general purpose drilling
A drill's word for power. High torque means the drill/driver is turning the bit very hard.
Variable Speed Trigger/Adjustment
Allows user to control the speed of the blade. This feature gives the user greater cut control.
Instructions: If you're sawing and you hit a particularly hard patch of material, simply adjust the speed of the saw to help you get through it.
The part of the wood you're cutting off.
Wormdrive Circular Saw
A Circular Saw with motor in the rear
Note: Some users may prefer a wormdrive, as the center of control is in the back instead of the side. They are are generally 1.5 to 2 times heavier than a sidewinder saw.