This website and the information contained in it is NOT designed to replace your manual. You need to read your manual and completely understand all requirements before operating your Circular Saw.
The blade guard will not hinder any cuts you plan to make. It is not meant to be removed.
Whether you're changing the blade, or adjusting the angle and depth of the saw, always make sure to disconnect the power source.
Some materials disperse more particles than others when making cuts. Have a dust mask handy if you are cutting these types of materials.
Make sure that the blade guard is not prone to sticking or jamming. The guard needs to move easily and freely. If the guard gets sticky, disconnect the power source and quickly move the blade guard lever back and forth. Check the operation of the lower guard spring.
A circular saw is meant to cut in a straight line, and trying to turn it as you cut will likely pinch the blade and cause kickback. If you go off-course, stop making your cut and start over at the point where the saw ran off your cut line. Using a guide can help prevent you from veering off your cut line.
This is especially important with large, flat pieces of material that may bow. If your piece bows during cutting, it's likely to pinch the blade and cause kickback.
Dont clamp down the waste side of the wood. The waste side needs to be free to fall, or else your blade might get pinched in the wood and cause kickback.
Always place the saw on the work piece that is supported, not the waste piece. This creates better stability when the waste side falls off.
The teeth of your blade need to be adjusted so that they are only about 1/4 in. below the bottom of your work piece. This is an important step to avoid kickback.
For quick marking of your cutting piece, it's good to have a speed square on hand. This tool helps you quickly measure a straight, perpendicular or 45 degree angled mark for cutting.
Improve your accuracy by clamping a straight piece of wood to your cutting surface. Place the guide wood where it can act as a fence for the base of the circular saw. Make your cut keeping the base against the guide wood; your cut should come out perfect.
If you are cutting a piece of material with a finished side, make sure that side is facing down to avoid scratching the finish.
The fewer the teeth your blade has, the rougher the cut. If you're working with a piece that has a delicate face, or you want the smoothest cut possible, go with a higher toothed blade.
Carbide-tipped blades tend to stay sharper longer. If you are planning to use your saw frequently, this may be a good investment.
Place a strip of painters tape where you want to make your cut line. This will allow you to mark your cut line without actually marking the material and will help alleviate splintering.
Allow your saw to get up to speed before touching the blade to the material.
This is a simple accessory that fits in the base of the saw and braces against the edge of the cutting piece. It helps you cut a nice, straight edge.
Disconnect the power cord or remove the battery from the tool. Press the spindle lock button and use the blade wrench to remove the blade screw, outer washer and blade. Place new blade into the saw and attach the washers. Clean as needed and place a drop of oil on the inner and outer blade washers where they touch the blade.
When you're working with a store-bought piece of wood or material, make good use of the factory edges. They're already square and level.
Have a supply of different sizes of clamps during yourproject. The help to stabilize your work piece, and to clamp a piece of guide wood to your work surface.
Using an aerosol blower or rag, remove dust and debris from your saw after use. You extend the life of your tool by keeping it clean.
Adjust the bevel setting to zero. Using the guard lever, lift the blade guard and start the saw. Rest the front of the base flat against the workpiece with the rear of the handle raised so the blade does not touch the workpiece. Once the saw is up to full speed, make your cut.