Your one stop destination for tips & techniques, manuals, troubleshooting, FAQs and more!
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This website and the information contained in it is NOT designed to replace your manual. You need to read your manual and completely understand all requirements before operating your Circular Saw.
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The blade guard will not hinder any cuts you plan to make. It is not meant to be removed.
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Whether you're changing the blade, or adjusting the angle and depth of the saw, always make sure to disconnect the power source.
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Some materials disperse more particles than others when making cuts. Have a dust mask handy if you are cutting these types of materials.
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Make sure that the blade guard is not prone to sticking or jamming. The guard needs to move easily and freely. If the guard gets sticky, disconnect the power source and quickly move the blade guard lever back and forth. Check the operation of the lower guard spring.
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A circular saw is meant to cut in a straight line, and trying to turn it as you cut will likely pinch the blade and cause kickback. If you go off-course, stop making your cut and start over at the point where the saw ran off your cut line. Using a guide can help prevent you from veering off your cut line.
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This is especially important with large, flat pieces of material that may bow. If your piece bows during cutting, it's likely to pinch the blade and cause kickback.
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Don’t clamp down the waste side of the wood. The waste side needs to be free to fall, or else your blade might get pinched in the wood and cause kickback.
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Always place the saw on the work piece that is supported, not the waste piece. This creates better stability when the waste side falls off.
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The teeth of your blade need to be adjusted so that they are only about 1/4 in. below the bottom of your work piece. This is an important step to avoid kickback.
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For quick marking of your cutting piece, it's good to have a speed square on hand. This tool helps you quickly measure a straight, perpendicular or 45 degree angled mark for cutting.
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Improve your accuracy by clamping a straight piece of wood to your cutting surface. Place the guide wood where it can act as a fence for the base of the circular saw. Make your cut keeping the base against the guide wood; your cut should come out perfect.
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If you are cutting a piece of material with a finished side, make sure that side is facing down to avoid scratching the finish.
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The fewer the teeth your blade has, the rougher the cut. If you're working with a piece that has a delicate face, or you want the smoothest cut possible, go with a higher toothed blade.
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Carbide-tipped blades tend to stay sharper longer. If you are planning to use your saw frequently, this may be a good investment.
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Place a strip of painters tape where you want to make your cut line. This will allow you to mark your cut line without actually marking the material and will help alleviate splintering.
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Allow your saw to get up to speed before touching the blade to the material.
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This is a simple accessory that fits in the base of the saw and braces against the edge of the cutting piece. It helps you cut a nice, straight edge.
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Disconnect the power cord or remove the battery from the tool. Press the spindle lock button and use the blade wrench to remove the blade screw, outer washer and blade. Place new blade into the saw and attach the washers. Clean as needed and place a drop of oil on the inner and outer blade washers where they touch the blade.
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When you're working with a store-bought piece of wood or material, make good use of the factory edges. They're already square and level.
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Have a supply of different sizes of clamps during yourproject. The help to stabilize your work piece, and to clamp a piece of guide wood to your work surface.
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Using an aerosol blower or rag, remove dust and debris from your saw after use. You extend the life of your tool by keeping it clean.
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Adjust the bevel setting to zero. Using the guard lever, lift the blade guard and start the saw. Rest the front of the base flat against the workpiece with the rear of the handle raised so the blade does not touch the workpiece. Once the saw is up to full speed, make your cut.
Base
The flat portion of the saw that sits flat on the work piece.
Instructions: Always make sure the base is resting completely flat while you're cutting. Rocking the base could result in kickback or a misaligned cut.
Bevel Cut
A cut made at an angle towards the inside of the work piece.
Instructions: Secure your work piece and mark your cut. Adjust the bevel to the angle you want. Align the line of cut with the 45° blade guide notch on the base when making 45° bevel cuts. Install the battery or plug the saw in and make your cut on the waste side of your cut mark. It is best to make test cuts no scrap material before cutting your workpiece.
Cross Cut
A cut made across the grain of the wood or material.
Instructions: Install your battery, or plug in the saw. Secure your work piece and mark your cut. Adjust the blade depth so that the teeth fall just below the work piece (no more than 1/4"). Install your battery, or plug the saw in. Remember to bring the blade just on the waste side of the cut, and make sure the motor side of the saw is over the supported part of workpiece. Make your cut, and be sure the blade comes to a complete stop before lifting the saw back up on any cut.
Cut line indicator
The notches on the front of the base that show you where your blade will go. Some are more accurate than others. Get familiar with your saw and make any necessary marks/adjustments to help you know exactly where your blade will go.
Edge Guide
An accessory that fits through the nose of the saw. It helps make straight cuts.
Instructions: Slide the edge guide through the holes in the front of your saw, and adjust it so that the vertical flat piece rests against the edge of your cutting piece. You can adjust the fence for wide or narrow cuts as necessary.
Factory Edge
When using store-bought wood or materials, the un-cut edges of the material are called factory edges. They are usually already square.
Instructions: Try to make use of factory edges in your projects. Take advantage of the fact that you have two sides that will already be perfectly straight and square.
Front
The front part of the base.
Instructions: The front will help guide you when you're making plunge or pocket cuts.
Jig
A re-usuable guide built for your circular saw
Instructions: Some users prefer to create a jig for their circular saws rather than use guide wood they have laying around. There are lots of instructional videos on YouTube that can help you make your own.
Keep Side
The side of the wood you are planning to use.
Kerf
The thickness of the blade
Kickback
When the saw is forced back suddenly to the user. This can be caused when the blade gets pinched in the wood due to insufficient support, when the blade encounters something inside the wood, the saw blade is misaligned or when the blade depth is set too deep.
Instructions: Kickback can be controlled more easily by taking the following steps: 1: Make sure your work piece is securely clamped. No wiggle. 2: Keep a firm, 2-handed grip on the saw during cutting. 3: Keep a stable, firm stance during cutting. Never put yourself in a postion that makes it easy to lose your balance.
Plunge Cut
A cut that is made inside a workpiece, with no edge to start from. Also known as a pocket cut. May be used for cutting out a hole for a floor vent.
Instructions: Adjust the bevel setting to zero. Using the guard lever, lift the blade guard and start the saw. Rest the front of the base flat against the workpiece with the rear of the handle raised so the blade does not touch the workpiece. Once the saw is up to full speed, slowly lower the blade into the work piece. Release the guard lever once the saw is in the material.
Pocket Cut
See plunge cut.
Sidewinder Circular Saw
A circular saw with the motor on the side.
Straight Edge Guide
A piece of wood that is used to make straight cuts.
Instructions: Find a piece of wood that is at least as long as the cut you want to make. (The guide wood must be straight). Clamp the wood to your work piece, and as you make your cut, keep your saw base flush against the guide. This will help you make a nice straight cut.
Tear out
Tear out occurs when the blade doesn't cut cleanly through the wood. During tear out, the blade makes a rough, splintery exit.
Instructions: Steps to reduce tear out: 1: Make sure the pretty side of the wood is facing down. 2: Make sure the blade you're using is in good condition. 3: Make sure your blade is set for the proper depth for your work piece (never more than 1/4" below) 4: use painter's tape on the top side of the workpiece.
Waste Side
The part of the wood you're cutting off.
Wormdrive Circular Saw
A Circular Saw with motor in the rear
Note: Some users may prefer a wormdrive, as the center of control is in the back instead of the side. They are are generally 1.5 to 2 times heavier than a sidewinder saw.
7-1/4 in. Circular Saw with Laser - csb125
7-1/4 in. Circular Saw with Laser - csb125
All RYOBI Outdoor Products purchased on or after 1.1.09 are covered by a 3-year warranty. All RYOBI Portable Power Tools and Bench/Stationary tools purchased on or after 1.1.11 are covered by a 3-year warranty.
Visit our replacmeent part store or our authorized service center locator for assistance with service and repairs.
