Disconnect the power source or remove the battery. Twist or loosen the blade clamp, (most saws have spring-loaded clamps) and insert the blade with the teeth facing out and up. Release the clamp and tug the blade to make sure it's set. Ensure that the blade sits properly inside the front roller.
To use the RYOBI BladeSaver™ feature: Remove the battery pack and remove the hex screw from the storage compartment. Loosen the two screws on the side of the bracket (don’t remove, just loosen). Adjust the base to where you want it based on the 1/8 in. increments. Re-tighten the screws, and return the hex key to its storage compartment.
Start on the edge of your work piece. Start the saw before it touches the wood, then slowly bring it to the material you are cutting. Make sure to keep the base of the saw flat on the surface through the entirety of your cut, and avoid forcing the saw and blade through the cut. Let the blade do the work.
Clamp a straight-edged piece of wood on to your work piece to act as a guide, and hold the base of the saw against the guide as you make your cut.
If your saw has a variable speed setting, start it at it's lowest setting, then simply set to your desired speed. Most units have a variable speed trigger, but the RYOBI units also include a variable speed dial to provide additional control for the user. For more information about your Jig Saw's Variable Speed settings, refer to your Operators Manual.
Once you have started the saw, you can run your Jig Saw without holding the trigger by pushing on the Lock-On button.
Use low speed to start a cut and when little power is needed. Use medium speed to cut cut hard metals, plastics and laminates. Use high speed to cut wood and soft metals like aluminum and copper.
Orbital action allows you to make a more aggressive cut. Use the lowest orbit setting for plastics, metal, PVC and for scroll and curve cuts in wood. The medium orbit setting is useful for plywood, decking, and hardwood. The maximum orbit setting is best for cutting general lumber and soft wood. Refer to the Orbital Motion Chart in your manual to determine what blade and orbital setting to use.
An edge guide slips through the front of the shoe, and helps make straight cross cuts and rip cuts. Always remove your battery or power source before attaching the edge guide.
Select a scrolling blade, which is thin, and fine-toothed. Apply gentle pressure on the trigger handle, and guide along your mark. Practice on scrap wood before cutting your work piece to familiarize yourself with the nature of the blade and Jig Saw.
Give your blade a starting point by drilling a hole in the material you plan to cut.
You can cut up to 45 degree bevels in 15 degree increments. To start, disconnect the battery or power source, and remove the hex key. Loosen the base-pivoting screws and slide the base till it moves freely left and right. Pick your angle on the scale, then slide the base forward and align the notches on the base. Tighten the base screws, and return the hex key to its compartment. Cut as usual, always keeping the shoe flat on the surface.
If you're cutting curves or scrolls and your blade persistently gets stuck or binds (slows down), you can cut away from your cut line into the waste material, relieving the blade along the curve and allowing for more space for the Jig Saw to move freely.
Different materials require different types of blades, so keep a variety of blades on hand. Blades are rated by TPI (teeth per inch) and the higher the TPI, the smoother the cut will be.
Bi-metal blades are made with two different types of metal and are layered together to make them last longer.
Rocking or pivoting the base can make the saw harder to control, and you may ruin your work piece.
Starting slowly will help you ease into the cut. Once you're in the material, you can adjust the speed.
If you're cutting with a normal up-stroke blade, using Masking or Painters tape can help deliver a smoother cut with less chipping.
Use a laminate-specific blade and cut the material slowly to decrease chipping.
Secure the metal sheet between two pieces of tightly clamped plywood. This will keep the metal from shredding and chipping. Make sure to use a metal-specific blade.
For smooth cuts in metal, use a metal-specific blade with 21-24 TPI (teeth per inch).
Make sure to have clamps on hand to secure your work pieces prior to cutting.
You can clamp a piece of scrap wood under your work piece to act as a barrier between the work piece and your work bench or saw horse. Doing so will also help prevent splintering.
When cutting complicated curves, using a slower speed setting will give you better control over the saw.
Keep the blade as straight as you can when installing to prevent the blade from breaking.
Use a fine-toothed blade with downward facing teeth (down-stroke blade) to keep from marring and splintering the finished side of your wood.
The base of the saw that sits flat on the work piece.
Instructions: Always operate the saw with the base completely flat on the work piece.
A cut made at an angle towards the inside of the work piece.
Instructions: Secure your work piece and mark your cut. Adjust the bevel to the angle you want. Align the line of cut with the 45° blade guide notch on the base when making 45° bevel cuts. Install the battery or plug the saw in and make your cut on the waste side of your cut mark. It is best to make test cuts no scrap material before cutting your workpiece.
Bi-metal blades are made from two different types of metal and are layered together to make them last longer.
Binding is when the saws blade gets stuck or slows down
Instructions: Try cutting relief cuts if your blade is binding.
The portion of the saw that holds the blade in place.
The section of the blade that is held in place by the blade clamp.
Instructions: Always be sure you know which kind of shank your jig saw accepts before purchasing blades.
The distance that the blade moves up and down
A cut made across the grain of the wood or material.
Instructions: Install your battery, or plug in the saw. Secure your work piece and mark your cut. Adjust the blade depth so that the teeth fall just below the work piece (no more than 1/4"). Install your battery, or plug the saw in. Remember to bring the blade just on the waste side of the cut, and make sure the motor side of the saw is over the supported part of workpiece. Make your cut, and be sure the blade comes to a complete stop before lifting the saw back up on any cut.
Sawing along a curve; might be used for making wooden wall decorations
Instructions: Use a high speed setting (low speed for cutting metal), and apply light pressure as you go around a curve. If the curve is especially sharp, you may want to make relief cuts to help with blade performance.
Down Stroke Blades
A jig saw blade with downward pointing teeth.
Instructions: Use this blade when you'd need the to protect the top of your work surface. Popular with cutting Laminate Countertops.
An accessory that fits through the nose of the saw. It helps make straight cuts.
Instructions: Slide the edge guide through the holes in the front of your saw, and adjust it so that the vertical flat piece rests against the edge of your cutting piece. You can adjust the fence for wide or narrow cuts as necessary.
A piece of scrap wood
Instructions: Clamp a straight piece of wood to your work piece. Saw with the shoe right against the guide wood.
Orbital Sawing Action
A feature that allows the saw blade to cut through materials faster (do not use with metal).
Instructions: Refer to operators manual to confirm blade types and materials recommended for this feature.
A cut that you make on the waste side that lets you move the saw more easily around a curve you're cutting.
Instructions: Cut straight notches along the outside (waste side) of your workpiece. This will give your saw blade more room to move without pinching and binding.
A cut that goes with the grain of the wood; might be used for cutting a long piece of wood for a frame
Instructions: Measure your cut. You may need to use a piece of guide wood, or an edge guide to keep the cut straight. Turn on the saw with the blade slightly away from the wood. When the saw is up to speed, slowly move the saw forward to make the cut.
Wood placed underneath your work piece that you don’t mind cutting during sawing. This is used to keep your work piece's edges smooth, the rough parts will be in the sacrificial piece.
Instructions: Clamp sacrificial wood tightly to the bottom side of your work piece. Do your cuts as usual.
Sawing a pattern in material that has curves and shapes; might be used for making wooden ornaments
Instructions: If you're cutting along curves or any other kind of fancy shapes, keep the saw on maximum speed setting and low orbital motion for more control. It's best to use a fine-tooth or a high TPI blade, preferably a scrolling blade.
Teeth per Inch - how Jig Saw blades are measured
Instructions: blades are rated by TPI and depending on what you need to cut, you may need to have a collection of wood blades, plastic blades, and metal blades.
Up Stroke Blade
Most Jig Saw blades are up stroke blades.
Visit our replacmeent part store or our authorized service center locator for assistance with service and repairs.