You can create your own guide by clamping a thin piece of wood to the fence of your Miter Saw. Once it's in place, bring the saw straight down through the guide to show you where the blade will land. This way, you don't have to measure the blade location each time you make a new cut.
Familiarize yourself with your Miter Saw before you use it. If you're using a Miter Saw for the first time, practice the various types of cuts you plan to use on pieces of scrap wood.
With your saw powered off, lower the blade all the way to the Miter table, and your piece of wood against the blade. Lift the blade back up and start the saw. Bring the blade down, and as it passes the wood, it will shave about 1/8 inch off.
To make a cleaner cut, select a blade with a higher tooth count. These blades tend to cut slower than a blade with a lower tooth count.
Support can be provided by a solid, stable surface that is level to your Miter Table..
The laser on your Miter Saw shows the exact location where the blade of the saw will cut the material. Using the laser will help you make quick, precise cuts every time. Note: Always check your lasers alignment. There will be times where calibrating your laser is necessary.
Place your wood to be cut on the Miter table and before pulling the trigger, pull the saw forward until it is beyond the work piece. Lift the blade and allow the saw to come to full speed, then lower it to your wood and slide the saw backward toward the fence. Always move the saw back toward the fence when cutting. Never pull the moving blade toward you.
Never start the saw with the blade on your cutting piece. Always pull the trigger and let the saw get up to full speed before lowering it for a cut.
Let the saw guide the pace of the cut. Applying pressure to the saw is not necessary and can be dangerous.
When making bevel cuts, the wood can pull toward the blade. To stay in control, keep a firm grip on the wood and slowly make your cut. You can also use a clamp to provide extra support.
Always inspect your material and make sure there are no staples or nails in the cutting path. Also be aware of Knots. Knots in the wood can break apart. Keep them out of your cut line.
It is possible for debris to be ejected from the saw as you make cuts. Always be prepared, alert and wearing eye projection.
Bring the saw down on the waste side of your cutting mark, or the part of your material that you won't be using, when you go to make your cut. If you cut on the side you're planning to use, you will make the piece too short. Make sure to account for the thickness of the blade as well.
Use supports for sections of your material that extend past the Miter table.
Use caution when making cuts close to the edge of your material, as it is possible for pieces to tear. Use appropriate eye protection at all times.
You only need to clamp the side of the wood you're going to keep for your project. Allowing the waste side to fall freely after a cut prevents pinching of the blade and kickback.
A Miter Saw Stand provides a surface to securely attach your Miter Saw and also provides extensions on each side to support your longer pieces of material.
If you're using a RYOBI ONE+ Cordless Miter Saw, always have charged batteries on hand to use throughout your project.
Keep a variety of clamps on hand to stabilize and secure your material to your work surface.
This website and the information contained in it is NOT designed to replace your manual. Read your manual and understand all guidelines and instructions before operating your Miter Saw.
Use clamps or bolts to secure your Miter Saw to your work station. The saw should be firmly attached and not move or shift while in use.
Never allow any part of your body to cross in front of the saw.
If you have a sliding miter saw, never pull the active saw toward your body. First, pull the inactive saw completely toward you. Start the saw, lower it, then move it backward away from you.
The blade should be completely stopped after a cut before you raise it or reach for your cut material.
The blade guard is there for your safety and those around you. It will not hinder your cutting abilities.
A dull blade can damage your material and your saw motor.
Make sure your material is against the Miter Fence to avoid kickback when making a cut.
Always have ear and eye protection when operating your Miter Saw.
Example: 24T, 40T, etc The "T" stands for teeth. Typically, higher "T" = smoother cut, while lower "T"= rougher cut. 80T - cutting hardwoods; 40T - Cutting base boards; 24T - Cutting 2x4s
Instructions: If you're working on building something like a shelf, or something where the edges don't matter as much, you can use a lower teeth rating and get done faster. If you're working on something more delicate however, user a blade with more teeth for a cleaner cut.
Bevel Cut (Miter Saws)
A cross cut, but with the blade angled. Might be used for making a shadow box
Instructions: Angle the saw to whatever bevel angle you want, and bringing the saw down into the wood. The miter table is in its 0 degree position, not angled at all.
A combination of Miter and Bevel Cut; might be used for doing crown molding around a door or a window
Instructions: Set both the miter table and the saw to your desired angle.
Cross Cut (Miter Saws)
A plain old cut. No angle, no bevel. Just a straight cut. Might be used for building a shelf.
Instructions: Bring the saw straight down onto the wood. Both the table and the saw are in their 0 degree positions.
A function that lets the saw angle to the left or to the right. This allows you to make bevel cuts from the left or the right. It's helpful to have because you do not have to flip your work piece to change the angle of the cut.
A feature that vacuums up dust while you work. Helps with precise cuts because your view is never obstructed by dust.
A laser that shows you where the blade will land instead of having to lower the inactive blade down onto your work piece to see where it would land. Helps with faster, repetitive cuts.
An angled cut; might be used for framing a house or working with door trim, base boards, and crown molding
Instructions: Angle the miter table, and bringing the saw down onto the wood. The saw bevel is in 0 degree position (straight up and down).
The part of the saw that slides out, allowing you to cut wider wood. It's great for cutting wider pieces of wood. (Usually no more than 13.5 inches.)
Instructions: When using the slide bar, pull the inactive blade completely forward, then activate the saw. Bring the saw down and move it back away from you. Never pull the active saw toward you.
This is the action you need when you want to cut a wider piece of wood. Might be used for making a small storage chest
Instructions: Raise the saw arm to its full height. Clamp your board in place with one edge secutrely against the fence. Align the cut line with the edge of the blade. Pull the saw handle toward you until the center of the blade is over the end of the workpiece. Squeeze the trigger and allow a few seconds for the saw to reach full speed and slowly lower the blade into and through the front edge of the workpiece. Push the saw handle away from you to the back of the saw. Release the trigger and allow the saw blade to stop rotating before raising the blade and removing workpiece.
When cutting long pieces, support the opposite end with an appropriate stand or with a work surfacve level with the saw table.
Instructions: NEVER hold longer pieces with your free hand. Heavy and long pieces WILL tilt or bow without something holding them up
These are the supports that slide out from the miter table to help support the cutting piece. These help with cutting longer pieces that hang over the base.
Waste Side (Miter Saws)
The part of the wood you're cutting off from the piece you want to use.
Instructions: Always make cuts on the waste side or else the piece you measured to use will be too short.
A clamp that holds the cutting piece in place.
Instructions: When using clamps, never clamp down the waste side of the material. The waste side needs to be free to fall.