Make sure your battery or power source is disconnected. Select the size drill bit you want based on the size of the hole you need and insert the drill bit in the jaws. Tighten the chuck by hand. Select the drilling application on your clutch adjustment ring to the drill setting. Make sure your drill is set to the forward position and adjust the gear switch to position 2 for high speed. Attach power source and you're ready to drill.

Make sure you're holding the drill level to your material. Start the drill and increase speed gradually. As the bit works into the material, increase the speed. Release the trigger once the hole is complete.

Make sure your battery or power source is disconnected. Select the low speed setting on your gear switch, and adjust the torque to a high level. Reconnect the power source and begin driving.

Beginning with the clutch setting on low, start driving the fastener, and adjust the clutch as needed. If the screw will not sink into the material completely, increase the clutch a little at a time until you're happy with the position of the screw. If you're new to drilling, it may take some time for you to get familiar with the settings. When driving, it's better to start with a low clutch setting and work your way up. If you start with a setting that's too high for the job, you may drive your screw too far into the material.

If your drill has a variable speed trigger, start the drill slowly and gradually increase your speed. This will give you more control over your driving and drilling projects.

It's a good idea to have an extra charged battery on hand if you plan to take on a large-scale project.

Measure the bit as far as you want to drill a hole into your material and mark the bit with tape. This helps you make sure you're drilling to the same depth every time.

A loose bit can damage your work surface. Make sure you tighten the chuck firmly before you start working.

Find a piece of scrap wood and take the time to get familiar with your Drill/Driver. Practice driving fasteners with and without a starter hole and holding the drill level on several different types of materials.

Switch easily between forward and reverse modes with the direction switch above the trigger.

Using a low torque setting for softer materials helps protect the material from damage by the fastener.

Starting with a low clutch setting, work your way up to a higher setting until you have driven your screw to the depth you want. Leave the clutch set at this setting for subsequent screws, and you'll drive all the screws to the same depth.

A bit should fit snugly into a screw head. Try the different sized tips to find the best fitting bit.

Long screws, short screws, screws for metal, screws for wood, bolts and nuts. Keep a supply that will fit your most common needs.

They need to be galvanized or rust-proof.

There is a large variety of fasteners available in the market. It's a smart investment to buy a set of driving bits so you never have to worry about coming across a fastener you cannot use. With out the correct bit, your fastener is obsolete.

You will need to have a variety of different sized drill bits for different applications.

Not only does a pilot holes prevent your wood from splitting but it also helps keep the screw on a straight path. For large and long screws, pilot holes make it much easier to drive into the work piece. If you're driving a screw within two inches of the board's edge it is more likely that wood will split, drilling a pilot hole will help keep the wood from splitting.

Drilling a pilot hole too large for your screw will make the screw unable to grip the material. Charts are available as reference guides. A quick way to pick the right size drill bit, is to compare the drill bit with the screw's shaft. The spiraling ridges of the screw stick out from the center of the shaft. Find a drill bit that is close to the same size as the center of the screw, and smaller than the spiraling ridges.

For shorter screws, a pilot hole may not be needed. You can help get the screw started without a pilot hole by using an awl or nail to make a small indention in the wood. Place your fastener into the indention and begin to drive your fastener.

Countersinks create pockets for the screw head to fit into. You can create a countersink with a counterbore, which is a pocket with a hole that matches the size of your screw head. This makes it easy to cover the screw with a plug or putty. It's great for hiding screws heads in furniture or any other projects where you don’t want the screw to show.

To keep your screws from stripping, make sure you're using the correct driving bit to match your screw head and be careful not to use more torque than needed.

This accessory allows you to make perfect pocket holes, which you will use a lot if you're making furniture.

Driving a screw crooked will lessen its holding power, and make it difficult to drive in all the way.

It's very hard to keep the bit centered on a slotted screw head. Most DIY-ers prefer Torx or Phillips head screws.

Measure the pieces you're joining and pick a screw that will go all the way through the top piece and about 1/2 way through the bottom piece. In other words, drive a fastener 3/4 of the total thickness of the two pieces.

This website and the information contained in it is NOT designed to replace your manual. You need to read your manual and completely understand all requirements before operating your Circular Saw.

The blade guard will not hinder any cuts you plan to make. It is not meant to be removed.

Whether you're changing the blade, or adjusting the angle and depth of the saw, always make sure to disconnect the power source.

Some materials disperse more particles than others when making cuts. Have a dust mask handy if you are cutting these types of materials.

Make sure that the blade guard is not prone to sticking or jamming. The guard needs to move easily and freely. If the guard gets sticky, disconnect the power source and quickly move the blade guard lever back and forth. Check the operation of the lower guard spring.

A circular saw is meant to cut in a straight line, and trying to turn it as you cut will likely pinch the blade and cause kickback. If you go off-course, stop making your cut and start over at the point where the saw ran off your cut line. Using a guide can help prevent you from veering off your cut line.

This is especially important with large, flat pieces of material that may bow. If your piece bows during cutting, it's likely to pinch the blade and cause kickback.

Don’t clamp down the waste side of the wood. The waste side needs to be free to fall, or else your blade might get pinched in the wood and cause kickback.

Always place the saw on the work piece that is supported, not the waste piece. This creates better stability when the waste side falls off.

The teeth of your blade need to be adjusted so that they are only about 1/4 in. below the bottom of your work piece. This is an important step to avoid kickback.

For quick marking of your cutting piece, it's good to have a speed square on hand. This tool helps you quickly measure a straight, perpendicular or 45 degree angled mark for cutting.

Improve your accuracy by clamping a straight piece of wood to your cutting surface. Place the guide wood where it can act as a fence for the base of the circular saw. Make your cut keeping the base against the guide wood; your cut should come out perfect.

If you are cutting a piece of material with a finished side, make sure that side is facing down to avoid scratching the finish.

The fewer the teeth your blade has, the rougher the cut. If you're working with a piece that has a delicate face, or you want the smoothest cut possible, go with a higher toothed blade.

Carbide-tipped blades tend to stay sharper longer. If you are planning to use your saw frequently, this may be a good investment.

Place a strip of painters tape where you want to make your cut line. This will allow you to mark your cut line without actually marking the material and will help alleviate splintering.

Allow your saw to get up to speed before touching the blade to the material.

This is a simple accessory that fits in the base of the saw and braces against the edge of the cutting piece. It helps you cut a nice, straight edge.

Disconnect the power cord or remove the battery from the tool. Press the spindle lock button and use the blade wrench to remove the blade screw, outer washer and blade. Place new blade into the saw and attach the washers. Clean as needed and place a drop of oil on the inner and outer blade washers where they touch the blade.

When you're working with a store-bought piece of wood or material, make good use of the factory edges. They're already square and level.

Have a supply of different sizes of clamps during yourproject. The help to stabilize your work piece, and to clamp a piece of guide wood to your work surface.

Using an aerosol blower or rag, remove dust and debris from your saw after use. You extend the life of your tool by keeping it clean.

Adjust the bevel setting to zero. Using the guard lever, lift the blade guard and start the saw. Rest the front of the base flat against the workpiece with the rear of the handle raised so the blade does not touch the workpiece. Once the saw is up to full speed, make your cut.

This website and the information contained in it is NOT designed to replace your manual. You need to read your manual and completely understand all requirements before operating your Circular Saw.

The blade guard will not hinder any cuts you plan to make. It is not meant to be removed.

Whether you're changing the blade, or adjusting the angle and depth of the saw, always make sure to disconnect the power source.

Some materials disperse more particles than others when making cuts. Have a dust mask handy if you are cutting these types of materials.

Make sure that the blade guard is not prone to sticking or jamming. The guard needs to move easily and freely. If the guard gets sticky, disconnect the power source and quickly move the blade guard lever back and forth. Check the operation of the lower guard spring.

A circular saw is meant to cut in a straight line, and trying to turn it as you cut will likely pinch the blade and cause kickback. If you go off-course, stop making your cut and start over at the point where the saw ran off your cut line. Using a guide can help prevent you from veering off your cut line.

This is especially important with large, flat pieces of material that may bow. If your piece bows during cutting, it's likely to pinch the blade and cause kickback.

Don’t clamp down the waste side of the wood. The waste side needs to be free to fall, or else your blade might get pinched in the wood and cause kickback.

Always place the saw on the work piece that is supported, not the waste piece. This creates better stability when the waste side falls off.

The teeth of your blade need to be adjusted so that they are only about 1/4 in. below the bottom of your work piece. This is an important step to avoid kickback.

For quick marking of your cutting piece, it's good to have a speed square on hand. This tool helps you quickly measure a straight, perpendicular or 45 degree angled mark for cutting.

Improve your accuracy by clamping a straight piece of wood to your cutting surface. Place the guide wood where it can act as a fence for the base of the circular saw. Make your cut keeping the base against the guide wood; your cut should come out perfect.

If you are cutting a piece of material with a finished side, make sure that side is facing down to avoid scratching the finish.

The fewer the teeth your blade has, the rougher the cut. If you're working with a piece that has a delicate face, or you want the smoothest cut possible, go with a higher toothed blade.

Carbide-tipped blades tend to stay sharper longer. If you are planning to use your saw frequently, this may be a good investment.

Place a strip of painters tape where you want to make your cut line. This will allow you to mark your cut line without actually marking the material and will help alleviate splintering.

Allow your saw to get up to speed before touching the blade to the material.

This is a simple accessory that fits in the base of the saw and braces against the edge of the cutting piece. It helps you cut a nice, straight edge.

Disconnect the power cord or remove the battery from the tool. Press the spindle lock button and use the blade wrench to remove the blade screw, outer washer and blade. Place new blade into the saw and attach the washers. Clean as needed and place a drop of oil on the inner and outer blade washers where they touch the blade.

When you're working with a store-bought piece of wood or material, make good use of the factory edges. They're already square and level.

Have a supply of different sizes of clamps during yourproject. The help to stabilize your work piece, and to clamp a piece of guide wood to your work surface.

Using an aerosol blower or rag, remove dust and debris from your saw after use. You extend the life of your tool by keeping it clean.

Adjust the bevel setting to zero. Using the guard lever, lift the blade guard and start the saw. Rest the front of the base flat against the workpiece with the rear of the handle raised so the blade does not touch the workpiece. Once the saw is up to full speed, make your cut.

Make sure your battery or power source is disconnected. Select the size drill bit you want based on the size of the hole you need and insert the drill bit in the jaws. Tighten the chuck by hand. Select the drilling application on your clutch adjustment ring to the drill setting. Make sure your drill is set to the forward position and adjust the gear switch to position 2 for high speed. Attach power source and you're ready to drill.

Make sure you're holding the drill level to your material. Start the drill and increase speed gradually. As the bit works into the material, increase the speed. Release the trigger once the hole is complete.

Make sure your battery or power source is disconnected. Select the low speed setting on your gear switch, and adjust the torque to a high level. Reconnect the power source and begin driving.

Beginning with the clutch setting on low, start driving the fastener, and adjust the clutch as needed. If the screw will not sink into the material completely, increase the clutch a little at a time until you're happy with the position of the screw. If you're new to drilling, it may take some time for you to get familiar with the settings. When driving, it's better to start with a low clutch setting and work your way up. If you start with a setting that's too high for the job, you may drive your screw too far into the material.

If your drill has a variable speed trigger, start the drill slowly and gradually increase your speed. This will give you more control over your driving and drilling projects.

It's a good idea to have an extra charged battery on hand if you plan to take on a large-scale project.

Measure the bit as far as you want to drill a hole into your material and mark the bit with tape. This helps you make sure you're drilling to the same depth every time.

A loose bit can damage your work surface. Make sure you tighten the chuck firmly before you start working.

Find a piece of scrap wood and take the time to get familiar with your Drill/Driver. Practice driving fasteners with and without a starter hole and holding the drill level on several different types of materials.

Switch easily between forward and reverse modes with the direction switch above the trigger.

Using a low torque setting for softer materials helps protect the material from damage by the fastener.

Starting with a low clutch setting, work your way up to a higher setting until you have driven your screw to the depth you want. Leave the clutch set at this setting for subsequent screws, and you'll drive all the screws to the same depth.

A bit should fit snugly into a screw head. Try the different sized tips to find the best fitting bit.

Long screws, short screws, screws for metal, screws for wood, bolts and nuts. Keep a supply that will fit your most common needs.

They need to be galvanized or rust-proof.

There is a large variety of fasteners available in the market. It's a smart investment to buy a set of driving bits so you never have to worry about coming across a fastener you cannot use. With out the correct bit, your fastener is obsolete.

You will need to have a variety of different sized drill bits for different applications.

Not only does a pilot holes prevent your wood from splitting but it also helps keep the screw on a straight path. For large and long screws, pilot holes make it much easier to drive into the work piece. If you're driving a screw within two inches of the board's edge it is more likely that wood will split, drilling a pilot hole will help keep the wood from splitting.

Drilling a pilot hole too large for your screw will make the screw unable to grip the material. Charts are available as reference guides. A quick way to pick the right size drill bit, is to compare the drill bit with the screw's shaft. The spiraling ridges of the screw stick out from the center of the shaft. Find a drill bit that is close to the same size as the center of the screw, and smaller than the spiraling ridges.

For shorter screws, a pilot hole may not be needed. You can help get the screw started without a pilot hole by using an awl or nail to make a small indention in the wood. Place your fastener into the indention and begin to drive your fastener.

Countersinks create pockets for the screw head to fit into. You can create a countersink with a counterbore, which is a pocket with a hole that matches the size of your screw head. This makes it easy to cover the screw with a plug or putty. It's great for hiding screws heads in furniture or any other projects where you don’t want the screw to show.

To keep your screws from stripping, make sure you're using the correct driving bit to match your screw head and be careful not to use more torque than needed.

This accessory allows you to make perfect pocket holes, which you will use a lot if you're making furniture.

Driving a screw crooked will lessen its holding power, and make it difficult to drive in all the way.

It's very hard to keep the bit centered on a slotted screw head. Most DIY-ers prefer Torx or Phillips head screws.

Measure the pieces you're joining and pick a screw that will go all the way through the top piece and about 1/2 way through the bottom piece. In other words, drive a fastener 3/4 of the total thickness of the two pieces.

Make sure your battery or power source is disconnected. Select the size drill bit you want based on the size of the hole you need and insert the drill bit in the jaws. Tighten the chuck by hand. Select the drilling application on your clutch adjustment ring to the drill setting. Make sure your drill is set to the forward position and adjust the gear switch to position 2 for high speed. Attach power source and you're ready to drill.

Make sure you're holding the drill level to your material. Start the drill and increase speed gradually. As the bit works into the material, increase the speed. Release the trigger once the hole is complete.

Make sure your battery or power source is disconnected. Select the low speed setting on your gear switch, and adjust the torque to a high level. Reconnect the power source and begin driving.

Beginning with the clutch setting on low, start driving the fastener, and adjust the clutch as needed. If the screw will not sink into the material completely, increase the clutch a little at a time until you're happy with the position of the screw. If you're new to drilling, it may take some time for you to get familiar with the settings. When driving, it's better to start with a low clutch setting and work your way up. If you start with a setting that's too high for the job, you may drive your screw too far into the material.

If your drill has a variable speed trigger, start the drill slowly and gradually increase your speed. This will give you more control over your driving and drilling projects.

It's a good idea to have an extra charged battery on hand if you plan to take on a large-scale project.

Measure the bit as far as you want to drill a hole into your material and mark the bit with tape. This helps you make sure you're drilling to the same depth every time.

A loose bit can damage your work surface. Make sure you tighten the chuck firmly before you start working.

Find a piece of scrap wood and take the time to get familiar with your Drill/Driver. Practice driving fasteners with and without a starter hole and holding the drill level on several different types of materials.

Switch easily between forward and reverse modes with the direction switch above the trigger.

Using a low torque setting for softer materials helps protect the material from damage by the fastener.

Starting with a low clutch setting, work your way up to a higher setting until you have driven your screw to the depth you want. Leave the clutch set at this setting for subsequent screws, and you'll drive all the screws to the same depth.

A bit should fit snugly into a screw head. Try the different sized tips to find the best fitting bit.

Long screws, short screws, screws for metal, screws for wood, bolts and nuts. Keep a supply that will fit your most common needs.

They need to be galvanized or rust-proof.

There is a large variety of fasteners available in the market. It's a smart investment to buy a set of driving bits so you never have to worry about coming across a fastener you cannot use. With out the correct bit, your fastener is obsolete.

You will need to have a variety of different sized drill bits for different applications.

Not only does a pilot holes prevent your wood from splitting but it also helps keep the screw on a straight path. For large and long screws, pilot holes make it much easier to drive into the work piece. If you're driving a screw within two inches of the board's edge it is more likely that wood will split, drilling a pilot hole will help keep the wood from splitting.

Drilling a pilot hole too large for your screw will make the screw unable to grip the material. Charts are available as reference guides. A quick way to pick the right size drill bit, is to compare the drill bit with the screw's shaft. The spiraling ridges of the screw stick out from the center of the shaft. Find a drill bit that is close to the same size as the center of the screw, and smaller than the spiraling ridges.

For shorter screws, a pilot hole may not be needed. You can help get the screw started without a pilot hole by using an awl or nail to make a small indention in the wood. Place your fastener into the indention and begin to drive your fastener.

Countersinks create pockets for the screw head to fit into. You can create a countersink with a counterbore, which is a pocket with a hole that matches the size of your screw head. This makes it easy to cover the screw with a plug or putty. It's great for hiding screws heads in furniture or any other projects where you don’t want the screw to show.

To keep your screws from stripping, make sure you're using the correct driving bit to match your screw head and be careful not to use more torque than needed.

This accessory allows you to make perfect pocket holes, which you will use a lot if you're making furniture.

Driving a screw crooked will lessen its holding power, and make it difficult to drive in all the way.

It's very hard to keep the bit centered on a slotted screw head. Most DIY-ers prefer Torx or Phillips head screws.

Measure the pieces you're joining and pick a screw that will go all the way through the top piece and about 1/2 way through the bottom piece. In other words, drive a fastener 3/4 of the total thickness of the two pieces.