This website and the information contained in it is NOT designed to replace your manual. You need to read your manual and completely understand all requirements before operating your Cordless Nailer.
Never operate any power tool without them!
When performing adjustments on the nailer, adding or removing nails, or clearing a jam, always remove the battery.
Never point the nailer at anything you don’t want to put a nail in.
Always keep your free hand well away from the nailer's tip.
Your holding hand needs to be well clear of the nail's path. Always.
Using a scrap piece of wood (ideally of the same stock you're building with) fire a few test nails to make sure the nail being driven to the depth you want.
You don’t want the nail to stick out, or go all the way through. The nail should set just below the surface of the wood. This will allow you to cover the hole with putty for a seamless look.
Gauges measure the thickness of the nail. Picking the right gauge depends on what project you're working on. For heavier material, you'll want a heavier nail (lower gauge) and for delicate work that needs no load-bearing power, you can use a smaller, more discreet nail (higher gauge.
The bigger the gauge number, the smaller the nail. Likewise, the smaller the gauge number, the bigger the nail.
Your nailer can only use the gauge nail indicated by the nailer's gauge rating. In otherwords, don't try to use 18 gauge nails in a 15 gauge nailer.
If you're doing lighter molding, such as quarter-round at the bottom of your wall, or installing a chair rail, an 18 Gauge Brad Nailer is fine for the job. If you're planning on installing heavier pieces, like heavy crown molding or anything that needs to be able to bear a little weight, pick 16 - 15 Gauge Finish Nailers. Some DIY users recommend the 16 gauge finish nailer as the most versatile option.
if you're joining two pieces of wood, pick a nail that is about 2X longer than the first piece.
The stripes in the grain can cause the nail to turn. Try to fire the nail so that the fastener goes in perpendicular to the stripes of the grain. This may help reduce blow outs.
Don’t leave nails partially driven. If the nail is sticking out more than 1/4", snip it off with a pair of wire-cutting pliers, and then drive the rest of the nail in using a hammer and a nail set. If the nail is less than 1/4" out, just drive it in with a hammer and a nail set.
Hammering a nail sticking out more than 1/4" will likely cause the nail to bend down and mar your work surface. Snip these nails off.
If you lay the belt clip down, you may scratch whatever surface it's laying on.
It's important not to let your magazine get gunky. If the action of the nailer is hindered by gunk, you're more likely to have misfires or jams.
This may not be possible when firing along a floor, but whenever you can, hold the gun perpendicular to the work surface. The direction of the nail can make a difference to the sturdiness of the project.
If you're using an 18 gauge or smaller, you can get very close to an edge without splitting the wood. However, if you're using a 16 gauge or larger, back off at least an inch from the edge of your work piece.
Brad, Finish and Framing Nailers are not meant to be used on cardboard and thinner materials.
If you're undertaking a big project, go ahead and get the biggest battery for your nailer. It will save you a lot of time.
When you want to make the job look as tidy as possible, fire in sequential mode. This mode drives one nail with each pull of the trigger.
When it's Ok to move fast and the placement of the nails isn’t as important, use contact actuation mode. This mode drives a nail as soon as the nose piece is pressed.
If your nailer is slightly tilted, your nail will drive slightly angled. If it's straight up and down, your nail will drive straight up and down.
If you get a blow out (the nail shoots through the wood and sticks out) snip the exposed portion of the nail off and hammer the remaining portion into the work surface.
These tools will help you correct any mistakes. You can fix blown out nails, and nails that didn’t drive all the way.
A pinner is best for very detailed woodworking. Pins don’t have much load-bearing strength but they are much harder to see so they're great for crafts and such.
Staplers are best for thinner materials, and they are very good at holding tight. They're great for fabrics projects, like re-upholstering.
Brad nailers are good for smaller molding jobs, and trim work. Example: Installing a chair rail, or quarter round. They're also great for common DIY projects like building picture frames or trimming windows.
Finish nailers are best for heavier stock, and are used for heavy crown molding and other projects that require more holding power. They're often recommended as a good choice if you can only get one kind of nailer.
Framing nailers are made for building structures. For instance, if you were planning on finishing your basement, a framing nailer would be a great for building the walls.
When you're working on a roof.
When using a brad nailer or stapler, wood glue can help add some extra durability.
Your magazine will not function properly if it's over loaded, or if the fasteners are facing the wrong way.
Letting go of the trigger before the cycle is compelte could cause the nail to only drive part way into the wood.
When a nail comes out of the material where it's not supposed to. Often happens because the nailer was held at a drastic angle, or because the material was too hard for the drive settings.
Instructions: Adjust the drive settings before you begin working to make sure they can handle the material. Don’t hold the nailer at a drastic angle that might allow the nail to come out.
A small nail. Usually 18 gauge
A nailer that fires small nails or brads.
Best for trim work, and molding. Also great for general DIY projects such as picture frames.
Or "bump feed", a setting on nailers that tells the nailer to fire a nail as soon as the nose piece is depressed. Allows user to fire nails rapidly.
Great for projects that require fast nailing / constructing
Depth of Drive
How deep the nailer drives the nail. Usually adjustable.
When the nailer fires, but there are no nails in the magazine. Can often damage the work surface as the driver blade may come in contact with the surface and dent it.
Dry Fire Lock out
A feature included with some nailers that prevents the nailer from firing if there are no nails in the magazine.
A nailer that fires thicker nails usually 16-15 gauge.
Great for heavier crown molding, and small furniture projects.
When a fastener's head is even with the surface of the material.
A nailer that fires heavy-duty nails, ex: 10 gauge.
Great for remodeling projects that require framing.
The measurement term that refers to the thickness of the nail. The lower the gauge, the thicker the nail.
The chamber where nails are loaded and fired.
A tool used with a hammer to drive the head of a nail deeper in the material.
Might be used for: Completely driving a nail that is sticking out slightly.
A small fastener, usually 23 gauge.
Best for crafts and decorative work.
A nailer that fires small pins (usually 23 gauge).
Best for crafts, and decorative projects.
How much force the nailer uses drive the nail. Usually adjustable.
A setting that requires the user to pull the trigger each time he/she wants to fire a nail. Slower, but more accurate nail placement.
Great for projects that require precise nailing/ finish work
A driven nail is a set nail.
When a fastener sits just below the surface of the material.